World War, 1914-1918 -- Campaigns -- Balkan Peninsula
The Cerna marked the end of our sector, and here the French area
began. A wooden bridge, well defended by earthworks armed with machine
guns, united the two areas. For a long time (in Macedonia units
seldom changed their quarters) the division adjoining ours was the
11th Colonial, with whose officers ours were always on the best of
terms. From this point a road led to Monastir, but although it was the
shortest route between that town and our H.Q. no one was allowed to go
along it on horseback or by motor, as it was under enemy fire. Monastir
itself, which could be reached by another road, although constantly
under fire, offered to those who lived on the Macedonian front the
attractions of a city. A large part of the population had returned, and
the shopkeepers simply coined money with their modest establishments,
as they could demand what prices they liked. By the end of the war
about two-thirds of the houses were in ruins, and few were those which
did not bear traces of the two years’ bombardment.
Let us now visit the front lines near the summit of 1050. Firing
trenches, communication trenches, dug-outs, shelters of all kinds, are
cut out of the living rock and it would be difficult to imagine more
uncomfortable positions than these. Near the summit our lines are but
a few metres from those of the enemy, and through the loop-holes one
may see the tin hats of the Germans and Bulgars. Here there have always
been some German battalions. After the operations of the autumn of
1916 the German units were to a large extent withdrawn from Macedonia,
and the number of German battalions from about twenty was gradually
reduced to three or four; but some of them constantly remained on 1050
opposite our troops. The enemy command considered this to be the most
important point of the whole defensive system, and therefore garrisoned
it with the troops in which it felt most confidence. A tour through
our trenches offered some curious sights. As most of the work had to
be done at night, a daylight visitor found the great majority of the
men fast asleep; he saw nothing but emerging feet, because the shelters
opened on to the communication trenches and the soldiers slept with
their heads inside and their feet stretching out towards the opening.
At intervals, in some wider space, he came upon groups of soldiers
washing, shaving, playing cards, reading or writing letters. There
were always some, officers or men, who “did the honours” and pointed
out the curiosities; it was impossible to pass near a mess without
being asked in to drink a glass of good wine and eat biscuits or even
cake, but if it was anywhere near meal time he was forced by friendly
and cordial comrades to stay to lunch or dinner. The ingenuity with
which officers and men managed to make themselves fairly comfortable in
quite impossible situations was really wonderful. Hanging on to a bare
mountain side, the summit of which was held by the enemy, who dominated
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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