The Man Farthest Down: A Record of Observation and Study in EuropeWashington, Booker T.
History
The Man Farthest Down: A Record of Observation and Study in Europe
Washington, Booker T.
Poor -- Europe; Working class -- Europe
Among the most striking costumes which I remember to have seen were
those of the Montenegrin traders, with their red caps, embroidered
vests, and the red sashes around their waists, which made them look
like brigands. After these, perhaps the most picturesque costumes
which I saw were worn by a troop of Dalmatian girls, the most striking
feature of whose costume was the white woollen leggings, tied at the
knee with ribbons. One figure in particular that I recall was that of
a little woman striding through the streets of Fiume, driving a little
train of beautiful cream-coloured oxen.
All these distinctions of costume emphasized each other by contrast,
and as they each signified differences in traditions, prejudices, and
purposes of the people to whom they belonged, they gave one a sort of
picture of the clash of races in this strange and interesting country.
Even among those races which are no longer divided by costume and
habits, racial distinctions seem to be more clearly drawn than at
Budapest. For example, to a large extent the business of the city seems
to be monopolized by Germans and Jews. The Government officials are
Magyars, but the bulk of the population are Italians and Croatians.
As a matter of fact there are three distinct cities, which commonly
go under the name of Fiume. There is the modern city, with its opera
house, its handsome official buildings, which is Magyar; the elder
city, with its narrow, gossiping streets and Roman triumphal arch,
which is Italian, and, finally, just across the canal, or "fiume,"
which seems to have given the name to the city, is a handsome new
Croatian town which is officially distinct from the rest of the city,
having its own mayor and town officials.
Fiume itself has an exceptional position in the Kingdom of Hungary.
It is what was known in the Middle Ages as a "free city," with a
governor and representatives in the Hungarian Parliament. The mayor, I
understand, however, is an Italian, who has married a Croatian wife.
This alliance of two races in one family seems to have a certain
advantage in the rather tumultuous politics of the city, for I was told
that when the Croatians, as sometimes happens, go to the mayor's house
in procession, with their grievances, the mayor's wife has been able to
help her husband by addressing her own people in their native language.
The most interesting thing I saw in Fiume, however, was the immense
emigration building, which has accommodations, as I remember, for
something like 3,000 emigrants. Here are the offices of the Hungarian
emigration officials, and in this same building are received and cared
for, until the next succeeding sailing, the accumulations of the stream
of emigration which flows steadily out at this port from every part of
the kingdom.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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