The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
The country round about is spangled with another collection of “aston”
villages; Ednaston, Edlaston, Ellaston, Hognaston. Muggington is the
grotesque name of a place on the right hand of the road.
[Sidenote: _ASHBOURNE_]
A long and steep hill leads down into Ashbourne, but the way was
steeper and more winding before this road was cut, in coaching days,
replacing the hazardous descent of Spital Hill. “Romantic Ashbourne,”
says Canning; and there it lies, far below, in the valley of the Dove,
so dwarfed by distance; and the almost sheer look down upon it that the
huddled houses look like some sediment, collected at the bottom of the
green vale.
XXX
The approach to Ashbourne, when you have descended the hill, is not
romantic, consisting as it does of the long squalid street of Compton,
rich in “lodgings for travellers,” _i.e._ tramps; and with the little
two-arched bridge, spanning the Henmore stream, lined with men and boys
diligently occupied in doing nothing, with great zest and complete
content.
The road at the end of Compton, which to all intents and purposes is
Ashbourne, takes a puzzling right and left-angle turn; and there you
are in the long street of the town, with the market-place, lining the
side of a hill, and the “Green Man,” at one end, and the church at the
other.
The town stands at a junction of roads that was once of considerable
importance. Going forward to Manchester, there is a choice of routes;
by way of Buxton, or by Leek, and thus the coaching traffic of
Ashbourne was considerable.
Canning, in his _Loves of the Triangles_, a sly parody of Dr. Erasmus
Darwin’s admired _Loves of the Plants_, celebrates Ashbourne and the
“Derby Dilly” which ran through it:
So down thy hill, romantic Ashbourne, glides
The Derby Dilly, carrying three insides,
One in each corner sits and lolls at ease,
With folded arms, propt back, and outstretched knees;
While the press’d Bodkin, pinch’d and squeezed to death,
Sweats in the mid-most place, and scolds, and pants for breath.
Canning, who was a friend of the Boothbys of Ashbourne Hall, probably
wrote this there.
The “Derby Dilly” was the current name for the “Diligence,” or light
post-coach, that ran in those days between Manchester and Derby,
through Ashbourne, and continued to run in this remote district long
after railways had elsewhere displaced coaches. To understand the
allusions in Canning’s verse, it is necessary to explain that these
“diligences” afforded less accommodation than that of an ordinary
coach. They carried no outsides, and three insides only, who sat on one
seat, facing the horses. The peculiar defects of the “diligence,” from
the point of view of the middle passenger, are obvious enough.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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