The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
A field-path across the pleasant water-meadows of the river Ver leads
from Gorhambury to Prae Mill House and so on to the road again, and
thence to Redbourne, a sleepy village with a sleepy railway-station,
fringed with meadows where donkeys and ponies graze and ducks and geese
march and countermarch aimlessly, their inevitable later association
with green peas and sage-stuffing happily hidden from them. Redbourne
is one of those “bourne” places which, without adequate reason, appears
to discard the final “e.” According to an emphatic inhabitant, “we
spell it with a hen, without a he at the hend.” Through the village and
out again upon the broad highway, we come presently to Friar’s Wash,
once a water-splash across the road, now a tiny row of cottages and
a wayside inn, the “Chequers,” standing beside the little river Ver
where the old road of pre-Telford days goes off to the right. Flamstead
(_i.e._ Verlamstead) church on the hilltop, its characteristic
Hertfordshire spirelet, with the appearance as though the greater
portion had subsided through the roof, looks down upon the quiet scene.
Beyond comes Markyate.
[Illustration: MARKYATE CELL.]
[Sidenote: _ROGER, THE HERMIT_]
Markyate Street, as it is how, is a wayside village, with a number
of more or less decayed coaching and drovers’ and waggoners’ inns in
its narrow street. The lovely old mansion of Markyate Cell, beyond,
standing removed from the dusty road, in its beautiful park, owes its
name to the spot having once been the hermit’s cell of one Roger, a
monk of St. Albans, who, returning from pious pilgrimage to Jerusalem,
was confronted by three angels, who there and then laid the vocation
of hermit upon him, and conducted him to this spot, where he lived
ever after: not altogether happy, for he suffered constant persecution
from the Devil, who, according to Roger’s own account, tried once to
drown him, and once set light to his hood. Had he ceased praying, there
can be no doubt the worst would have befallen him; but he continued,
unmoved, under these most alarming circumstances, and the Enemy was
foiled.
After a while in this solitude, a “holy virgin,” Christina by name,
came from Huntingdon and settled near by the equally holy Roger, who
afforded her religious instruction, until he was called away from this
vale of tears, when his body was laid in St. Albans Abbey. Christina
established the Benedictine Convent of Markyate Cell, and became first
Prioress of it in 1145. The mansion that now stands on the site in the
wooded park is a veritable dream of peace and beauty; but there are
hiding-holes in it, which sufficiently prove, if proof were wanted,
that not always was peace and security the dominant note.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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