The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 1 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
Turning suddenly from the Holyhead Road at this not very conspicuous
corner, the telegraph-poles that have hitherto made so brave a show are
missed, and the Manchester Road, for lack of them, seems of less than
the first-class importance it really owns. Solitary runs the road for
some miles, the sequence of trees and well-plashed quick-set hedges of
this well-cared-for district varied only by the companionable signposts
bearing the quaint or sonorous names of places on either side: places
to which you do not want to go, and of which you have probably never
before heard: but you like the information all the same. For one thing,
they are earnest of the fact that the country really is inhabited:
which the emptiness of the road would lead one to doubt. You speculate
idly as to what manner of place “Simpson” may be: “Eaton Bray” is
alluring, “Ellesborough” attractive; but it is still over 360 miles to
Glasgow, and the invitation into the byways is resisted.
There is a reason for this apparent—and in some sense
real—depopulation. We are here within the radius of the blighting
influence exercised by the Dukes of Bedford, whose immense seat of
Woburn Abbey we are approaching. And even where the Russell tentacles
do not reach, there are numerous other great parks. Away to the
right, is, for instance, Wrest Park, one of the finest domains in
Bedfordshire. Were there aught in the sound of that name, Wrest in Beds
should be an ideal place for the born-tired.
[Sidenote: _THE EARTH IS THE LORDS’_]
By reason of these great landowners, the district through which the
road runs for some ten miles is wholly park-like, and the villages
to either side are mere insignificant incidents. There is at Milton
Bryant, on the right-hand side of the road, a highly instructive
example of the manner in which these influences work. The local
Wesleyan chapel, greatly resembling a small barn, stands beside the
village pond, and indeed, until recently stood in it, being supported
above the water on posts. In that manner the tiny chapel was originally
built in 1861, it being impossible to obtain land elsewhere for the
purpose.
Now comes the park-wall of Woburn Abbey, skirting the road for two
miles. And not merely a wall, but a hedge in front of it, as well.
At such pains have their Graces of Bedford been to obtain additional
seclusion in a country where you will scarcely ever meet one person in
a mile.
On the way to the little town of Woburn, the chief entrance to this
great park is passed; the iron gates, painted an agonising blue which
in a mere commoner would be shocking bad taste, recessed from the road
at the rear of about half an acre of grass-plot. That grass-plot is
instructive, for it is earnest of the truly ducal scale on which things
are done at Woburn.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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