The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green — John Shaqi
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
exquisite room, richly panelled in oak, with striped black-and-white
plaster and timbered roof, and with gorgeously coloured and gilt wall
paintings, the notorious Dr. Dee, Warden of the College in Elizabethan
times, entertained among others Sir Walter Raleigh; and no doubt gazed
into his mystic crystal globe here, on his guest’s behalf, to see what
the future held in store for that courtier, warrior, explorer, and
adventurer. Did it reveal nothing of that grim cell in the Tower where
that unfortunate man was to spend years of captivity? Did no inimical
shadows wax and wane in that crystal, to warn him that Tower Hill and
the headman’s axe would cut his thread?
[Sidenote: _CHETHAM’S LIBRARY_]
If historic associations sufficed to bring eloquent writing into
being, then what is now the Reading Room should be the parent of much
literature; but the student resorting hither will have the place very
much to himself, save for occasional parties of gaping visitors shown
round by a Chetham’s schoolboy, for Chetham’s Library is rich rather
in black-letter tomes, and in works that research feeds fat upon, than
in current literature. One would not wish this cloistral seclusion
amended. To find in Manchester, whose every byway seethes with life, a
corner not already occupied, a spot where you can hear the ticking of
a clock, is too delightful to be forgone. There is, indeed, only one
other spot in Manchester where something the same conditions prevail,
and that is the great palatial building of Ryland’s Library, where
inestimably rare books, manuscripts, and bindings are to be found.
Manchester Cathedral adjoins Chetham’s Hospital. Cathedral though it be
now, by virtue of the creation of the modern Bishopric of Manchester,
the building is but a glorified parish church, and not any of the many
additions made to it of recent years suffice to render it anything
else. It remains, as it were, an incidental and not essential feature
of the great city.
I suppose—the intense rivalry between Manchester and Liverpool being
a thing to reckon with in so many directions—Manchester will not long
remain content with this condition of affairs, especially since it
has become known that the new Liverpool Cathedral, rising now from
its foundations, is to outrange all others for size. The stranger to
Manchester would certainly never imagine that the church he perceives,
immediately outside the Exchange station, was of Cathedral rank; and
indeed it is so only by reason of modern ecclesiastical arrangements,
made expedient by the growth of great modern industrial communities.
[Illustration: MANCHESTER CATHEDRAL, FROM DEANSGATE.]
[Sidenote: _MISERERES_]
[Illustration: MISERERE SEAT, MANCHESTER CATHEDRAL: THE PEDLAR AND THE
MONKEYS.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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