The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
There is nothing at all of the “Caledonia stern and wild” description
of scenery along these first few miles. The country becomes pleasantly
undulating, villages are placed here and there along the road, and
a railway runs companionably by, with the stream of Kirtle Water
neighbouring it. Kirkpatrick is the first village. Beyond it the
old road of pre-Telford days goes off to the right, for nearly two
miles, and joins the modern road again at Merkland, passing an ancient
granite boundary-cross surrounded by holly-bushes. A very great deal
of highly untrustworthy “history” may be acquired about this cross by
him who seeks wayside information. At the roadside smithy, hard by,
the blacksmiths tell you it is the memorial of a man who was shot from
Robgillt Tower—or “Toe-er,” in the local pronunciation. Whether the
man who was shot was worth the memorial is more than any one can say,
but the shot itself certainly would deserve a monument. A long shot,
indeed, for it is a good mile away to Robgillt Tower! Bonshaw Tower,
closer at hand, seems more likely. Another story, very popular in the
neighbourhood, is that the men of this district sold their wives here.
Passing Kirtlebridge and its railway station, and crossing Kirtle Water
and Mein Water, we come by some very pretty woodland and parklike
scenery, to Ecclefechan: a very celebrated place now, and a place of
pilgrimage since Thomas Carlyle died, in 1881. For Ecclefechan was the
native village of that latter-day prophet, hero-worshipper, and apostle
of work.
But there lies to the left of the road at the approach to Mein Water
and the park of Burnfoot, a little-known Carlyle landmark that should
be noted. The little graveyard of Pennersaughs contains the tombs of
his grandfather and great-grandfather, among others.
A great deal of argument has been expended upon the meaning of
Ecclefechan. “Ecclesia Fechanis” is said to be the origin of the name;
but who St. Fechan was, who is supposed to have founded the original
church here, is more than any one is prepared to definitely say. The
sceptical stoutly declare him a myth: a saintly “Mrs. Harris”; while
Welshmen might declare that “Ecclefechan” is “Eglwys vychan,” _i.e._
“Little Church,” and none would be able to prove himself correct.
[Illustration: ECCLEFECHAN: SHOWING BIRTHPLACE OF THOMAS CARLYLE.]
[Sidenote: _CARLYLE’S BIRTHPLACE_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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