The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
Beyond Abington, the river and the rail alike turn aside and leave
the road to solitude. Not even Telford’s road-engineering genius
could abolish the ghastly pull-up over the bleak and beastly moor
that stretches between this point and Douglas Mill. You deceptively
descend to it, to Denighton Bridge, crossing a little stream that comes
down the valley from Crawfordjohn, but then rise to an exposed lonely
plateau, bleaker than Shap and without its interest. Down at Denighton
Bridge, where the view ranges along the gloomy valley wherein the
Covenanters skulked and the troopers of Montrose hunted them, the sheep
graze and the lambkins frisk in spring. Even a wet and cold cyclist
(who is not easily amused) must shriek with laughter at the antics of
the lambs, which are a good deal funnier than those of any low comedian
I have ever seen. No need to encore them either, for they continue all
day, or at least until, exhausted with laughter, you depart, to face
the muir above.
Heaven send the traveller who travels here by his own efforts has fine
weather and a following wind, otherwise his progress is slow martyrdom
along eight miles of shivery loneliness, and thrice welcome is the
longed-for descent to Douglas Mill.
The Douglas Water runs in a deep and beautifully wooded valley at
Douglas Mill, where the wayside Douglas Mill Inn stood in the coaching
era, and where, behind an imposing gravelled sweep, the entrance to the
beautiful park of the Earl of Home is seen. For five miles another
stretch of old road goes to the right, across Broken Cross Muir, as
far as Lesmahagow: the new road pursuing an eventful course, past the
Newfield Inn.
Lesmahagow, _i.e._ the Court, or Place, of Mahego, an early Gaelic
saint, was once the site of an Abbey. It is now a small, but
prosperous, town, looking very new and neat, in spite of the fact that
it is situated on the edge of the Lanark coal-field. The traveller
who pursues a dogged way along the road, and looks to neither right
nor left, will know nothing of Lesmahagow, which lies slightly to the
left hand; and I am sure he will not miss much. But, in the crossing
of old and new roads here, at the bridging of the little river Nethan,
and with the railway passing near by, a singular complexity of ways is
produced.
[Sidenote: _THE LANARKSHIRE COALFIELD_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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