The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
Yet although Glasgow is, in its population, the “second city of the
Empire,” coming next after London, it is by no means the centre of so
great a number of smaller townships as Manchester, and by consequence
the approach, along crowded streets to the centre of the city, is
not so lengthy. Bothwell, at the very furthest, is the limit, and is
nine miles from the Exchange at Glasgow. Laurel Bank and the suburb
of Uddingston follow, and to this fringe in these days the electric
tramways extend. To these marches of the city succeed Broomhouse and
some busy outlying collieries of the Lanarkshire coal-fields, Mount
Vernon railway station, and Tolcross. It was at the approach to
Tolcross, soon after the mail-coach to London had been established,
that a desperate attempt to wreck and rob the mail was made. The road
at that time passed through a small fir wood, where a strong rope was
stretched across the highway and securely fastened at either end to
tree-trunks, at the height of the places usually occupied by coachman
and guard; but, as it happened, a slow-moving hay-waggon came along
first, instead of the more quickly moving van, and the waggoner got
rather a surprise.
XXXV
[Sidenote: _GLASGOW CROSS_]
At Tolcross, the traveller has at last arrived at Glasgow, and enters
there, into the wealthy city, by the meanest of back-doors. Tolcross
and its lengthy continuation, Gallowgate, are one long-drawn slum, and
so conduct shamelessly to the very heart of things: the junction of
Trongate, Saltmarket, and High Street, where stands the old centre of
the city in coaching days, Glasgow Cross.
Here Glasgow is at its busiest, and the hurrying crowds look as though
they had little time for sentiment. Yet the Glasgow people have, of
course, an interest in Sir Walter Scott, and some there are who can
point out to the stranger the house, once an inn, in King Street,
turning out of Trongate, which Scott once frequented. It was perhaps
the original of the “Luckie Flyter’s Hostelry” in _Rob Roy_. The
pilgrim will be bidden look at the iron ring to which Sir Walter, in
common with many another traveller, secured his horse.
But there is little enough of this sort of thing: railways old and
railways new; railways above and railways below, and electric tramcars
on the surface, are the chief things in evidence.
Here you see the Cross station of the underground railway, cheek
by jowl with the old equestrian statue of William the Third, that
tells you, without more ado, of Glasgow’s old Whiggish complexion of
politics: the tall steeple of the old Tolbooth, and straddling the
sidewalk, the tower of the Tron Church. The Tron itself (it was a
public weighing-machine) went very long ago, together with the pleasant
custom of nailing to it the ears of those tradesfolk who gave short
weight.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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