The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna GreenHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Manchester and Glasgow Road, Volume 2 (of 2): This Way to Gretna Green
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Scotland -- Description and travel
In despair at picturing Manchester in brief—for it is not to be done—I
will devote some pages to a few words as to coaching times, and then
conclude. Little can with advantage be said of those times, because
the inns to and from which the coaches and waggons came and went are
nearly all of the past, and because old inns of any kind are rare in
Manchester nowadays. The ancient “Seven Stars” in Withy Grove is,
however, not only much older than the oldest coach, but looks it too,
in its timbered gables and stout walls, and is even of age remote
enough for it to be claimed that the Collegiate Church itself is junior
to it. Nay, it even pretends to be the “Oldest Licensed House in Great
Britain.” Near it is the equally picturesque and ancient “Old Rover’s
Return.” The “Bull’s Head,” in a neighbouring alley, with the finely
moulded head of a bull by way of sign, has convivial memories and
associations with early postal times, and there stands a grotesquely
out-of-plumb timbered and lath-and-plastered old tenement in Long
Millgate that was once the “Sun” inn, the place where Ben Brierley and
his fellow dialect-poets found inspiration in the chimney-corner. The
initials “W. A. F.” and the date 1647, are found upon the old building,
but it is obviously at least a century older than that. No longer an
inn, it is still known as “Poets’ Corner,” and in its rather vague
celebrity the curio-dealer who now occupies the premises doubtless
finds his account.
[Illustration: THE “SUN” INN, POET’S CORNER.]
[Sidenote: _THE “BRIDGEWATER ARMS”_]
The foremost coaching inn at Manchester was the “Bridgewater Arms,”
near the corner of High Street and Market Street. To it came the Royal
Mail. In later years H. C. Lacy removed to grander premises, at the
corner of Mosley Street and Market Street: a house that had in its
day been a fine private mansion, and then still had the advantage of
possessing a very large, well-stocked garden in the rear. He styled
this house the “Royal Hotel and New Bridgewater Arms,” and to it came
as well as the Mail, the “Defiance” and other smart coaches. It has
long since disappeared, and the present “Royal Hotel” stands on the
site; but the old original “Bridgewater Arms” still exists, although
now, and for many a year past, occupied as warehouses. The initials
B. I. M. and date 1736 are on a spout-head that looks down upon
Bridgewater Place, the narrow alley upon which the warehouse fronts. It
is a fustian warehouse in these days, but a poetic tribute by a former
guest of the house, torn from the arms of his lady-love, remains,
scratched on the glass of an upper window. He had his own ideas of
where capital letters and punctuation should occur:
Adieu, ye streams that smoothly flow;
Ye vernal airs that gently blow;
Ye fields, by flowing spring arraid;
Ye birds, that warble in the shade.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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