The Manufacture of Chocolate and other Cacao PreparationsZipperer, Paul
Science
The Manufacture of Chocolate and other Cacao Preparations
Zipperer, Paul
Cacao; Chocolate; Cocoa
beans are washed, or trodden with the naked foot, in some countries,
and so cleansed from the pulp remains still adhering. They are then
allowed to dry in the open air, and packed into sacks; contact with
metal or stone is strictly to be avoided, which as good conductors of
heat and rapid cooling agents are most disadvantageous. Instead of
piling the beans up in loose heaps, they may be fermented in “Tanks”
made of wood, and where possible, provided with partitions. According
to Kindt, cedar wood has been proved best for this purpose, because
of its enormous resisting capacity. It used to be thought that in
fermentation ensued a germination of the seed,[8] as in the preparation
of malt; but this idea has been proved erroneous. The contrary is
rather the case, for the process almost kills the seed; and when the
sensitiveness of the latter is taken into consideration, and also
the fact that it only develops under the most favourable conditions,
it must be allowed that the statement contains an obvious truth. Yet
chemical change does take place in the fermentation of the seed; but
as to its precise nature, owing to the lack of scientific research on
the scene of operations, we are still unable to dogmatise. It would
therefore be useless to discuss the manifold theories and speculations
bearing on this point, and waste of time to discuss the various
kinds of fermentation and the chemical processes therein involved.
Yet it may almost be taken for granted, that the fresh-plucked bean
contains a so-called glycoside[9] which decomposes into grape sugar,
into an equally amyloids colour stuff (the so-called cacao-red), and
the nitrogeneous alkaloids Theobromine and Kaffein; a change probably
incidental to the fermentation.[10] The sugar might further split
up into Alcohol and Carbonic Acid Gas, although this is by no means
established.
Whilst we have lost our bearings as far as the chemical aspect of
this process is concerned, we are much more firm in respect to the
biological, thanks to researches which Dr. v. Preyers has conducted on
the spot in Ceylon. Preyer’s[11] experiments leave absolutely no room
for objection, and it can safely be accepted that there are no bacteria
present in fermentation, but a fungus-like growth rich in life, a
kind of yeast by him called Saccharomyces Theobromae, and described
in passing;[12] facts which constitute the gist of his findings. He
further establishes that the presence of bacteria often noticed is
absolutely undesirable, and that better results are obtained when all
life is energetically combated, and especially these bacteria. We
should, then, be confronted with the same phenomenon in the preparation
of cacao as are already met with in beer brewing, and the pressing of
wine and which are still waited for in the preparing of tea and tobacco.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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