Whilst at Philadelphia the head-waiter of the hotel informed me that a very grand concert was to take place, for which it was difficult to obtain tickets, but that a prima donna would sing there whom he considered worthy of my attention. In due course he got me a ticket, and I attended the concert, which was held in one of the extreme quarters of the city. On entering I was quite surprised to find an audience of some 1,500 or 2,000, who were all black, I being the only white man present. I must say I was amply repaid for the trouble I had taken, as the music was all of the first order. In the course of the concert the prima donna appeared, gorgeously attired in a white satin dress, with feathers in her hair, and a magnificent diamond necklace and earrings. She moreover wore white kid gloves, which nearly went to the full extent of her arm, leaving but a small space of some four inches between her sleeve and the top of her glove. Her skin being black, formed, of course, an extraordinary contrast with the white kid. She sang the Shadow Song from _Dinorah_ delightfully, and in reply to a general encore gave the valse from the _Romeo and Juliet_ of Gounod. In fact no better singing have I heard. The prima donna rejoiced in the name of Mdlle. Selika. Shortly afterwards a young baritone appeared and sang the "Bellringer," so as to remind me forcibly of Santley in his best days. I immediately resolved upon offering him an engagement to appear at the Opera-house in London as "Renato" in _Un Ballo in Maschera_, whom Verdi, in one version of the opera, intended to be a coloured man; afterwards to perform "Nelusko" in _L'Africaine_, and "Amonasro" in _Aida_. Feeling certain of his success, I intended painting him white for the other operas. After some negotiation I was unable to complete the arrangement. He preferred to remain a star where he was. After the final performance of our Philadelphia engagement we started at about 3 a.m. with the whole Company for New Orleans, our special train being timed to reach that city by the following Sunday. On arriving at Louisville the gauge was broken, and the track became narrow gauge, which necessitated the slinging of every one of my grand carriages to have new trollies put under them to fit the smaller gauge. This was so skilfully managed whilst the artists were asleep that they were unaware of the operation. CHAPTER VII. PANIC AT NEW ORLEANS--THERMOMETER FALLS 105 DEGREES--BANQUET AT CHICAGO--THE COUNT DI LUNA AT MARKET--COFFEE JOHN--AN AMERICAN GEORGE ROBINS--MY UNDERTAKER. On getting down to New Orleans we found a great change in the temperature, and although it was the month of January the thermometer stood at about 75°. It had been raining exactly six weeks prior to our arrival, and only ceased as our train went in, fine weather immediately afterwards making its appearance.