I have been so long looking forward to arriving at Attegrat, that, being
here, I feel that I have made a long stage into the interior of Abyssinia.
I confess, however, that I am disappointed in Attegrat. It is foolish, I
own. I ought by this time to have learnt the utter hollowness and
emptiness of all statements connected with the country; and everything we
have been told, everything we have been led to expect, has alike turned
out utterly incorrect. Sometimes we have been told pleasant things,
sometimes we have been threatened with dire calamities; but in both cases
the vaticinations have turned out equally incorrect. Guinea-worms and
tape-worms, fever and cholera, small-pox and dysentery, tetse-fly and
sunstroke—all these have been distinguished by their absence: but as a
counterbalance, so have Colonel Phayre’s green fields and gushing springs
at Zulla, his perennial water between Sooro and Rayray Guddy, and his
emporium of commerce at Senafe, which turned out a village of six
mud-huts. Still, in spite of previous disappointments, I confess I clung
to the idea that I should find a town of considerable size at Attegrat.
The place was marked in Roman capitals upon the maps. It had been spoken
of as a town flowing with milk and honey; it was to be one of our main
halting-places; and altogether one certainly did expect to find rather
more than twenty hovels, a barn called a church, and another ruinous barn
which was once a palace. But before I describe Attegrat, let me detail my
journey here from Goun-Gonna. I sent my baggage off at seven o’clock in
the morning, at the same time that the baggage of the head-quarters of the
33d and Colonel Penn’s battery of mountain guns started. I then explored
the pretty valley I described in my last, and afterwards went into a
friend’s tent and finished my letter to you. At twelve o’clock I started
for what I was told was an eleven miles’ ride; but it turned out the
longest sixteen I have ever ridden. Every officer and man to whom I have
spoken—and among others I may quote Colonel Milward and Colonel Penn of
the Artillery, and Major Cooper, and all the officers of the 33d—agreed
with me that it was over sixteen miles. Colonel Phayre’s and the
quartermaster’s departments’ gross miscalculation of distances is becoming
a very serious nuisance. It is absolutely cruel upon the men. If soldiers
are told that they have a sixteen miles’ march across a rough country, and
beneath a hot sun, they will do the distance. It may be hard work; but
they know when they start what is before them, and they make up their
minds to it. But when they are told it is eleven miles, at the end of that
distance they begin to look out anxiously for their camping-place. They
become cross and impatient, and are infinitely more fatigued than they
would have been had they been told the real distance that was before them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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