I now resume my account of my day’s march. For the first two miles the
road mounted very steeply, until we were at least a thousand feet above
Goun-Gonna, and had gained the great plateau out of which the valley is
cut. It must have been a very difficult ascent before the road was made by
the Sappers and Miners and Punjaub Pioneers. I do not know which parts of
the road between Senafe and Attegrat are to be assigned to each regiment;
but I believe that the road between Senafe and Goun-Gonna was executed
principally by the 33d, assisted by the 10th Native Infantry, and that
beyond this point it has been entirely the work of the Sappers and Miners
and the Pioneers. The road from Goun-Gonna to Attegrat has not been
continuously formed, as it is from Zulla to Goun-Gonna. It is only made in
very difficult places, where it would have been next to impossible for a
mule to have passed without its burden getting over its ears or tail. In
other places we have the mere track worn by the people of the country; but
where we ascend or descend gulleys or ravines, or where the road winds
along on the face of a hill, when a false step would have involved a roll
of a thousand feet down, there a fair road has been cut, which, although
frequently steep, is always safe and passable. The road, take it as a
whole, from Goun-Gonna to this place, is about as good as a bridle-road
among the Welsh or Scotch hills. There are some extremely-steep places,
where one mule falling down would stop a whole force, and where the loads
shift terribly; but there are no places which cannot with care be
surmounted, even by a baggage-train of mules. But this has been the easy
portion of the journey. From this place to Antalo the difficulties will be
vastly greater; beyond Antalo still greater again. It is for this reason
that I look forward to a time when my knapsack will contain my whole
luggage, and when sleeping in the open air will be the rule for everyone.
Upon getting fairly up to the top of the hill-side from Goun-Gonna, a flat
of apparently almost illimitable extent stretched away before us. Two or
three of the curious conical hills which abound in this country rose at a
considerable distance, and in the horizon were the peaks of the most
fantastically-jagged range of mountains I ever saw. Nothing in the Alps
will give any idea of the varied outline of this range of peaks. They are
serrated and jagged in every conceivable form. Single peaks and double
peaks, peaks like a cavalry saddle, and great square-topped blocks with
perpendicular sides. The plain itself was dotted with low bushes, and
covered everywhere with a luxuriant growth of grass, or rather hay, which
reached up to the horses’ girths. The ground was strewn with loose stones,
which, with the numerous small holes, made any progress beyond a
walking-pace difficult and even dangerous. The stones, and indeed the
whole formation of this upper plateau, are composed of a very white
sandstone.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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