In the pass up to Senafe the formation was entirely schist,
broken and cracked-up in a wonderful manner, with numerous veins of
quartz, and occasional walls of very hard volcanic stone traversing it. On
the plain of Senafe, and throughout the whole country this side of it, we
have a superincumbent bed of sandstone, which has evidently been exposed
for a very long time to the action of water. The great rocks of Senafe are
everywhere water-worn, and were islets, which rose above the level of a
great sea, and resisted the action of the water, which has cleared away
the sandstone around them to the general regular level of the plateau.
Traversing the plain, we found that the seemingly almost boundless level
was apparent rather than real, for the road constantly wound to avoid
great valleys, which everywhere penetrated far into it. The sensation of
coming suddenly upon a valley of 1000 or 1500 feet deep when apparently
travelling upon a level plain was very singular. It quite upset all our
preconceived notions of scenery. One found that the mountains to our left,
which had appeared to rise a thousand feet or so above the plain, were
really double that height from the bottom of the before-invisible valley
which intervened between ourselves and them, and that the plain we were
traversing was not a plain at all, but a succession of flat mountain-tops.
Sometimes these valleys ran so far into the plateau that the road would
have to diverge too much from the straight line to pass round their heads,
and in these cases we descended some hundred feet and mounted up the other
side. The view down some of these valleys was extremely fine, the
mountains beyond frequently rising for miles in an unbroken perpendicular
wall of two or three thousand feet. The finest view, however, was about
two miles from our halting-place; and this, although I have seen much
splendid scenery in my varied wanderings, was certainly the finest and
most striking scene I ever beheld. Our path was winding along the face of
a high mountain, along which our pioneers had cut a path some ten or
twelve feet wide. We were perhaps a hundred feet above the general level
of the plateau, but were passing round the head of a valley which lay some
fifteen hundred feet below us. This valley was only a short branch of a
broader valley which ran at right-angles to it, and beyond and in the
middle of which a number of isolated hills rose up like islands; these
were all flat-topped, and rose to the exact level of the general plateau.
Some had sloping sides, others were perfectly perpendicular; and it
required no stretch of the imagination to picture the time when a mighty
river was sweeping down this great valley, and when these island-mountains
breasted and divided its waters. To our right this valley was ten or
twelve miles wide, and the numerous islands presented an extraordinary
vista of precipice and slope. On the opposite side of the valley the
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