from this were suspended, by straw ropes, two large stones of sonorous
qualities. These were the church-bells. The church itself was a low
edifice, built of rough stones, with large blocks forming the door-frame.
Entering, I found myself in a low chamber, the roof being supported by
four rough stone columns. The floor was littered down with rushes, and had
exactly the appearance of a stable. On the wall was a rude half-length
fresco of the Virgin, squinting terribly; and on the door leading to the
next chamber was a skin or parchment with a somewhat similar painting.
Having bowed deeply before each of these portraits at the request of the
officiating priest, I was admitted into the next chamber, which was
precisely similar to the first, but, having no windows, it only received
such light as came in through the crevices of the doors. There was some
demur as to my entering the next chamber, which indeed had been refused to
all the officers who had been previously there; but I pointed to my white
solar hat; and this and the fact of my not being in uniform convinced
them, I believe, that I was a priest; for I should mention that the
Abyssinian priests are distinguished by wearing white turbans, all the
rest of the population going bare-headed. I was therefore admitted into
the holy of holies. This was a more lofty chamber than the others, and was
lighted by a window high up on the side wall. Across the room, at a
distance of about a yard from the door, hung a screen about six feet high;
this screen was made of roughly-embroidered canvas, and was apparently
intended to prevent the eyes of the worshippers in the second chamber
catching a glimpse of the _penetralia_ when the door was opened. Looking
round the end of this curtain, I saw an erection resembling a painter’s
easel. A parchment or skin was stretched across the upper portion, and on
this probably was a painting of some sort; but as it was wrapped up in a
cloth, I was unable to examine it, as I was not allowed to go beyond the
line of the screen. Returning, I noticed in one corner of the first
chamber some long sticks, with a double bend at the top; that is,
resembling in form a cross, with the top piece broken off. These are used
in the service. Near them, in a niche in the wall, were some pieces of
iron fastened together so as to make a jingling noise when shaken. These,
no doubt, supply the place of the bell at the raising of the host. I have
omitted to say that in the churchyard were two rough fonts; they were
round blocks of stone, about two feet and a half high and eighteen inches
in diameter; the hollow at the top for water was about eight inches deep.
I have seen no fonts in the other churches I have entered.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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