The following morning I started for Attegrat, a march of about eleven
miles. For some distance the road kept along the top of the plateau, which
was here undulating, and the road in many places was very rough. At last
we came to the brink of a valley, into the bottom of which we had to
descend. How anything like a laden animal ever got down before the road
was made it is next to impossible to imagine. We came along a beaten track
to the top of the valley, and we could see the path again going straight
along below us from the bottom; but there was no trace of any track or
path down the tremendously-steep descent; and I suppose the little
bullocks, which are as sure-footed as goats, and the donkeys, were allowed
to pick their way down as they liked best. Fortunately, we were not
reduced to this alternative, which would certainly have ended in three out
of our four baggage-animals breaking their necks, even if the fourth—a
sturdy little Massowah mule, with the zebra-marks upon his back and
legs—had managed to get in safety to the bottom. A road has been cut along
the face of the hill by the Sappers and Pioneers; and this road, although
exceedingly steep in some places, is yet perfectly practicable. It is,
however, only six feet wide, and in two or three places even less, and
consequently a train of mules are a long time getting down; for if the
load of one shifts and gets over his ears, all the rest must wait until it
is readjusted-no easy matter upon a steep incline. If one fall from
weakness or disease, there would be no resource but to roll him at once
over the edge of the path into the valley below. Fortunately, none of
these contingencies happened to us. The loads all got on to the animals’
necks, but our men and ourselves were able to keep them balanced there
until we reached the foot of the hill, when all the loads had to be taken
off and entirely repacked. Just at the foot of the incline was a village.
During our journey across the plateau from Goun-Gonna to this point we had
only passed Fokado and one other village. We saw many down in the deep
valleys around whose heads we had skirted, but upon the flat level of the
plateau we did not see a single habitation. There were numerous herds of
cattle, but these probably come up to graze upon the thick grass during
the day, and descend into the valleys for water at night. We also passed
some curious piles of stones upon the plateau-land, which I omitted to
mention in my description of that part of my journey. These piles were
thirty or forty feet in diameter, and five or six feet high; they were of
stones roughly thrown together, and had I met with them in England I
should have supposed that they had been merely cleared off the fields; but
here there were no signs of cultivation, and the stones were too thickly
strewn everywhere to render it probable that any Abyssinian cultivator
would have undertaken the labour of clearing piles of stones of this size
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