off his land—a work which, without wheeled vehicles, would be very great.
These heaps always occurred near the track, and were generally surrounded
by bushes. I passed at least twenty of them. It is possible that these
cairns may be burying-places; but the deserted position, the fact that
they were far from villages, and the labour which they must have taken to
make, all seem to negative this supposition. Besides which, there was
hardly the regularity about their shape which one meets with in the
burying-cairns of even the most savage nations. I confess that they are to
me a perfect mystery. In the village at the foot of the descent was a
church which was exactly similar to the one at Fokado. It had no fonts
that I could observe, but boasted of a gong in addition to the sonorous
stones for summoning the faithful to prayers. In the enclosure, lying
among the stones, was a large volcanic bomb, the first of the sort I have
seen in the country; it had apparently been brought there as something
strange, and perhaps supernatural, and had therefore been put on holy
ground; for the enclosure within the walls is holy in Abyssinian eyes, and
we are always required to take off our hats on entering the outside gates.
From this village to Attegrat the road keeps in the bottom of a broad
valley, the great part of which is ploughed up and ready for the seed,
which is, I suppose, sown before the June rains. The soil is light and
good, in many places a rich light loam, which would delight an English
gardener’s heart. The ploughs are drawn by oxen, and are exactly similar
to those I have seen in parts of Italy, except that the share of this is
broader and does certainly more work. Indeed, it is by no means badly
adapted for shallow ploughing on a light ground. A ride of about five
miles down the valley brought us to a slight rise in the ground, and on
surmounting this, Attegrat lay before us. My first impression was that of
disappointment, for, with the exception of its containing two or three
larger buildings, it differed in nothing from the other villages we have
seen. The valley, at the point where Attegrat lies, is about two miles
wide, and the twenty or thirty flat-roofed huts, which, with the church
and a ruined palace, constitute the city, stand on rising ground nearly in
its centre. On the left of this valley, near the slope, is the British
camp. Behind it the ground rises gradually, affording camping-ground, if
necessary, for a considerable force. Indeed, with the exception of some
ploughed fields round the town, the whole valley is well suited for a
camp. The force at present here are the five companies of the 33d
regiment, whose camp, with that of Penn’s mountain battery of steel guns
and the Royal Engineers, is the first we arrive at. Next to the 33d lines
are the commissariat stores. A few hundred yards farther down in the
valley is the camp of the six companies of the 10th Native Infantry. Their
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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