enclosure, and saw at once that this church was of far greater pretensions
than any I had yet seen. The entrance was by a doorway of squared beams,
with two arches, each cut out of one piece, and each ornamented with five
rolls of wood underneath. Entering this, we were in a sort of lobby or
hall. The walls of this were covered with frescoes representing the feats
of the founder of the church, who was either the father or grandfather of
the present chief. Here that redoubted warrior is represented spearing an
elephant; again he is kneeling and taking aim at a lion, whose claws are
of truly-formidable dimensions. Here there are two or three battle-scenes,
in which he is defeating his enemies with immense slaughter. To judge by
his portraits, the founder of the church was a fair, round-faced man, with
short hair and a slight moustache. I passed from this vestibule into the
church itself. Its construction differs entirely from the others I have
seen, inasmuch as instead of the sacred chamber being placed beyond two
others, it was in the centre of the building, and was surrounded by a
passage, the walls of which were covered with frescoes representing events
in Old and New Testament writing, and in the lives of the saints. Here we
have St. George nobly spearing the dragon, while the King of Egypt’s
daughter and her maidens stand by with clasped hands and admiring eyes.
Here we have St. Peter suffering martyrdom by being crucified head
downwards; with a vast number of other martyrdoms. The biblical events all
strictly follow the scriptural description; the only remarkable difference
being that at the Last Supper thirteen apostles are represented as being
present. In all these, as in the first frescoes, the faces of the actors
are represented as white; while in the Temptation the tempter has his
traditional sable hue. These frescoes are all in the early Byzantine
style, and were they but really ancient, would be extremely curious and
valuable; but as the church is not, at most, more than sixty or seventy
years old, it is evident that they are the work of some Egyptian or Greek
artist brought down for the purpose. I was not allowed to see what was in
the central chamber. Leaving the church, I crossed the town, sixty or
seventy yards, to where, at its other extremity, stands the ruined palace.
It is surrounded by a wall, which encloses a considerable extent of
ground. The principal portion of the palace far more resembles a church
than do any of the actual churches of the country. It consists of a hall
fifty feet long by twenty-five feet wide, with a small round room at the
end opposite to the door. The entrance is underneath a porch; and along
this, at about eight feet from the ground, there are built into it a line
of bullocks’ horns, with their points projecting outwards. The hall was
thirty feet high to the springing of the roof, and must have been really a
fine hall, country and place being taken into consideration. The greater
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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