part of one side-wall has, however, fallen; and the roof is entirely gone.
Some of the great beams which crossed it lie on the ground, and it would
be a matter of considerable interest to inquire whence, in a treeless
country like this, these massive beams were obtained. The most interesting
portion of the ruin is the room beyond the great hall, and which was
probably the king’s own room. It is entered by a double-arched door, of
workmanship and design similar to that I have described at the church; the
two buildings being coeval, and the woodwork unquestionably worked by some
foreign artificer brought here for the purpose. The chamber itself is
about fifteen feet across, with three deep recesses, each lighted by a
small double-arched window of the same pattern as the door. The room was
about twelve feet high, and was ceiled by a circular arched roof, which
still remains. It is made of reeds or rushes sewn side by side, like the
basketwork of the country, and dyed with a pattern in reel and blue. This
was all worth describing in the palace; there were several other buildings
attached to it, but none worthy of any special notice.
About a mile beyond Attegrat, upon the other side of the valley, there is
another church, whose site might well have been selected by the monks of
old for a monastery, so charming is the grove in which it is situated.
This grove is of considerable extent, and consists of several sorts of
really lofty trees: there is a thick undergrowth—with plenty of paths for
walking, however—of all sorts of plants. There are some tall bananas with
their broad, graceful leaves, the first I have seen since I left Bombay.
There are roses and honeysuckles, wild figs and acacias; over all of which
a thick cordage of various creepers twines in clusters. To add to the
enjoyment, the whole air is heavy with the fragrance of the wild jasmine,
which grows in great bushes, covered with clusters of its white star-like
flowers. While sitting down with a party of three or four officers of the
33d enjoying the delightful shade and the charming fragrance, the priest
with several natives came up to us, and taking seats, or rather
squatting—I do not think an Abyssinian knows how to sit down—beside us,
they entered into a species of conversation with us, inquiring
particularly, as do all the natives, if we were Christians. Presently they
made signs they would like to see some sketches I had been taking; but
when they took them in their hands they were completely puzzled, turned
them upside down and sideways, and even looked behind at the back of the
paper: they could evidently make nothing of them. Presently the priest,
with an air of great self-satisfaction, made signs that he could write,
and demanded if I could do so. I had no writing at hand, but in my
sketch-book I had a column of your paper which I had cut out for purposes
of reference; this I gravely handed over, and it was received with a
perfect shout, first of astonishment, then of delight.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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