The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
Other great boulevards, like the Boulevard Victor Hugo and the Boulevard
Dubouchage, have been opened out of late years to let the surplus wealth
that flows into Nice in one constant stream find room to build upon.
Châteaux and gardens are springing up merrily on every side; the slopes of
the hills gleam gay with villas; Cimiez and Carabacel, once separate
villages, have now been united by continuous dwellings to the main town;
and before long the city where Garibaldi was born and where Gambetta lies
buried will swallow up in itself the entire space of the valley, and its
border spurs from mountain to mountain. The suburbs, indeed, are almost
more lovely in their way than the town itself; and as one wanders at will
among the olive-clad hills to westward, looking down upon the green
lemon-groves that encircle the villas, and the wealth of roses that drape
their sides, one cannot wonder that Joseph de Maistre, another Niçois of
distinction, in the long dark evenings he spent at St. Petersburg, should
time and again have recalled with a sigh "ce doux vallon de Magnan." Nor
have the Russians themselves failed to appreciate the advantages of the
change, for they flock by thousands to the Orthodox Quarter on the heights
of Saint Philippe, which rings round the Greek chapel erected in memory of
the Czarewitch Nicholas Alexandrowitch, who died at Nice in 1865.
After all, however, to the lover of the picturesque Nice town itself is
but the threshold and starting point for that lovely country which
spreads on all sides its endless objects of interest and scenic beauty
from Antibes to Mentone. The excursions to be made from it in every
direction are simply endless. Close by lie the monastery and amphitheater
of Cimiez; the Italianesque cloisters and campanile of St. Pons; the
conspicuous observatory on the Mont Gros, with its grand Alpine views; the
hillside promenades of Le Ray and Les Fontaines. Farther afield the
carriage-road up the Paillon valley leads direct to St. André through a
romantic limestone gorge, which terminates at last in a grotto and natural
bridge, overhung by the moldering remains of a most southern château. A
little higher up, the steep mountain track takes one on to Falicon,
perched "like an eagle's nest" on its panoramic hill-top, one of the most
famous points of view among the Maritime Alps. The boundary hills of the
Magnan, covered in spring with the purple flowers of the wild gladiolus;
the vine-clad heights of Le Bellet, looking down on the abrupt and
rock-girt basin of the Var; the Valley of Hepaticas, carpeted in March
with innumerable spring blossoms; the longer drive to Contes in the very
heart of the mountains: all alike are lovely, and all alike tempt one to
linger in their precincts among the shadow of the cypress trees or under
the cool grottos green and lush with spreading fronds of wild maidenhair.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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