The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
Among so many delicious excursions it were invidious to single out any for
special praise; yet there can be little doubt that the most popular, at
least with the general throng of tourists, is the magnificent coast-road
by Villefranche (or Villafranca) to Monte Carlo and Monaco. This
particular part of the coast, between Nice and Mentone, is the one where
the main range of the Maritime Alps, abutting at last on the sea, tumbles
over sheer with a precipitous descent from four thousand feet high to the
level of the Mediterranean. Formerly, the barrier ridge could only be
surmounted by the steep but glorious Corniche route; of late years,
however, the French engineers, most famous of road-makers, have hewn an
admirable carriage-drive out of the naked rock, often through covered
galleries or tunnels in the cliff itself, the whole way from Nice to Monte
Carlo and Mentone. The older portion of this road, between Nice and
Villefranche, falls well within the scope of our present subject.
You leave modern Nice by the quays and the Pont Garibaldi, dash rapidly
through the new broad streets that now intersect the Italian city, skirt
the square basins lately added to the more shapeless ancient Greek port of
Limpia, and begin to mount the first spurs of the Mont Boron among the
villas and gardens of the Quartier du Lazaret. Banksia roses fall in
cataracts over the walls as you go; looking back, the lovely panorama of
Nice opens out before your eyes. In the foreground, the rocky islets of La
Réserve foam white with the perpetual plashing of that summer sea. In the
middle distance, the old Greek harbor, with its mole and lighthouse,
stands out against the steep rocks of the Castle Hill. The background
rises up in chain on chain of Alps, allowing just a glimpse at their base
of that gay and fickle promenade and all the Parisian prettinesses of the
new French town. The whole forms a wonderful picture of the varied
Mediterranean world, Greek, Roman, Italian, French, with the vine-clad
hills and orange-groves behind merging slowly upward into the snow-bound
Alps.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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