The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
Turning the corner of the Mont Boron by the grotesque vulgarisms of the
Château Smith (a curious semi-oriental specimen of the shell-grotto order
of architecture on a gigantic scale) a totally fresh view bursts upon our
eyes of the Rade de Villefranche, that exquisite land-locked bay bounded
on one side by the scarped crags of the Mont Boron itself, and on the
other by the long and rocky peninsula of St. Jean, which terminates in the
Cap Ferrat and the Villefranche light. The long deep bay forms a favorite
roadstead and rendezvous for the French Mediterranean squadron, whose huge
ironclad monsters may often be seen ploughing their way in single file
from seaward round the projecting headlands, or basking at ease on the
calm surface of that glassy pond. The surrounding heights, of course,
bristle with fortifications, which, in these suspicious days of armed
European tension, the tourist and the sketcher are strictly prohibited
from inspecting with too attentive an eye. The quaintly picturesque town
of Villefranche itself, Italian and dirty, but amply redeemed by its
slender bell-tower and its olive-clad terraces, nestles snugly at the very
bottom of its pocket-like bay. The new road to Monte Carlo leaves it far
below, with true modern contempt for mere old-world beauty; the artist and
the lover of nature will know better than to follow the example of those
ruthless engineers; they will find many subjects for a sketch among those
whitewashed walls, and many a rare sea-flower tucked away unseen among
those crannied crags.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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