The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
The lions of the town itself, as distinguished from the wonders of its
fortifications, are few in number. The Cathedral, the Garrison Library,
Government House, the Alameda Gardens, the drive to Europa Point exhaust
the list; and there is but one of these which is likely to invite--unless
for some special purpose or other--a repetition of the visit. In the
Alameda, however, a visitor may spend many a pleasant hour, and--if the
peace and beauty of a hillside garden, with the charms of subtropical
vegetation in abundance near at hand, and noble views of coast and sea in
the distance allure him--he assuredly will. Gibraltar is immensely proud
of its promenade, and it has good reason to be so. From the point of view
of Nature and of Art the Alameda is an equal success. General Don, who
planned and laid it out some three-quarters of a century ago,
unquestionably earned a title to the same sort of tribute as was bestowed
upon a famous military predecessor, Marshal Wade. Anyone who had "seen"
the Alameda "before it was made," might well have "lifted up his hands and
blessed" the gallant officer who had converted "the Red Sands," as the
arid desert once occupying this spot was called, into the paradise of
geranium-trees which has taken its place. Its monuments to Elliot and
Wellington are not ideal: the mysterious curse pronounced upon English
statuary appears to follow it even beyond seas; but the execution of the
effigies of these national heroes may, perhaps, be forgotten in the
interest attaching to their subjects. The residents at any rate, whether
civil or military, are inured to these efforts of the sculptor's art, and
have long since ceased to repine. And the afternoon promenade in these
gardens--with the English officers and their wives and daughters, English
nursemaids and their charges, tourists of both sexes and all ages, and the
whole surrounded by a polyglot and polychromatic crowd of Oriental
listeners to the military band--is a sight well worth seeing and not
readily to be forgotten.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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