The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
As the headland, crowned by the walls of Corneto, recedes into the
distance a little river is crossed, which, unimportant as it seems, has a
place in ecclesiastical legend, for we are informed that at the Torre
Bertaldo, near its mouth, an angel dispelled St. Augustine's doubts on the
subject of the Trinity. Then the road approaches the largest port on the
coast since Leghorn was left. Civita Vecchia, as the name implies, is an
old town, which, after the decline of Ostia, served for centuries as the
port of Rome. It was founded by Trajan, and sometimes bore his name in
olden time, but there is little or nothing within the walls to indicate so
great an antiquity. It was harried, like so many other places near the
coast, by the Saracens, and for some years was entirely deserted, but
about the middle of the ninth century the inhabitants returned to it, and
the town, which then acquired its present name, by degrees grew into
importance as the temporal power of the Papacy increased. If there is
little to induce the traveller to halt, there is not much more to tempt
the artist. Civita Vecchia occupies a very low and faintly defined
headland. Its houses are whitish in color, square in outline, and rather
flat-topped. There are no conspicuous towers or domes. It was once
enclosed by fortifications, built at various dates about the seventeenth
century. These, however, have been removed on the land side, but still
remain fairly perfect in the neighborhood of the harbor, the entrance to
which is protected by a small island, from which rises a low massive tower
and a high circular pharos. There is neither animation nor commerce left
in the place; what little there was disappeared when the railway was
opened. It is living up to its name, and its old age cannot be called
vigorous.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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