The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
South of Civita Vecchia the coast region, though often monotonous enough,
becomes for a time slightly more diversified. There is still some marshy
ground, still some level plain, but the low and gently rolling hills which
border the main mass of the Apennines extend at times down to the sea, and
even diversify its coast-line, broken by a low headland. This now and
again, as at Santa Marinella, is crowned by an old castle. All around much
evergreen scrub is seen, here growing in tufts among tracts of coarse
herbage, there expanding into actual thickets of considerable extent, and
the views sometimes become more varied, and even pretty. Santa Severa, a
large castle built of grey stone, with its keep-like group of higher
towers on its low crag overlooking the sea, reminds us of some old
fortress on the Fifeshire coast. Near this headland, so antiquarians say,
was Pyrgos, once the port of the Etruscan town of Cære, which lies away
among the hills at a distance of some half-dozen miles. Here and there
also a lonely old tower may be noticed along this part of the coast. These
recall to mind in their situation, though they are more picturesque in
their aspect, the Martello Towers on the southern coast of England. Like
them, they are a memorial of troublous times, when the invader was
dreaded. They were erected to protect the Tuscan coast from the descents
of the Moors, who for centuries were the dread of the Mediterranean.
Again and again these corsairs swooped down; now a small flotilla would
attack some weakly defended town; now a single ship would land its
boatload of pirates on some unguarded beach to plunder a neighboring
village or a few scattered farms, and would retreat from the raid with a
little spoil and a small band of captives, doomed to slavery, leaving
behind smoking ruins and bleeding corpses. It is strange to think how long
it was before perfect immunity was secured from these curses of the
Mediterranean. England, whatever her enemies may say, has done a few good
deeds in her time, and one of the best was when her fleet, under the
command of Admiral Pellew, shattered the forts of Algiers and burnt every
vessel of the pirate fleet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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