The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
In such a city as Venice it is hard to praise one view above another.
There is the noble sweep of the Grand Canal, with its palaces; there are
many groups of buildings on a less imposing scale, but yet more
picturesque, on the smaller canals, often almost every turn brings some
fresh surprise; but there are two views which always rise up in my mind
before all others whenever my thoughts turn to Venice, more especially as
it used to be. One is the view of the façade of San Marco from the Piazza.
I shall make no apology for quoting words which describe more perfectly
than my powers permit the impressions awakened by this dream-like
architectural conception. "Beyond those troops of ordered arches there
rises a vision out of the earth, and all the great square seems to have
opened from it in a kind of awe, that we may see it far away: a multitude
of pillars and white domes clustered into a long, low pyramid of colored
light, a treasure-heap, as it seems, partly of gold and partly of opal and
mother-of-pearl, hollowed beneath into five great vaulted porches, ceiled
with fair mosaic and beset with sculptures of alabaster, clear as amber
and delicate as ivory; sculpture fantastic and involved, of palm-leaves
and lilies, and grapes and pomegranates, and birds clinging and fluttering
among the branches, all twined together into an endless network of buds
and plumes, and, in the midst of it, the solemn forms of angels, sceptered
and robed to the feet, and leaning to each other across the gates, their
features indistinct among the gleaming of the golden ground through the
leaves beside them, interrupted and dim, like the morning light as it
faded back among the branches of Eden when first its gates were
angel-guarded long ago. And round the walls of the porches there are set
pillars of variegated stones, jasper and porphyry, and deep-green
serpentine, spotted with flakes of snow, and marbles that half refuse and
half yield to the sunshine, Cleopatra-like, 'their bluest veins to kiss,'
the shadow as it steals back from them revealing line after line of azure
undulation, as a receding tide leaves the waved sand: their capitals rich
with interwoven tracery, rooted knots of herbage, and drifting leaves of
acanthus and vine, and mystical signs all beginning and ending in the
Cross: and above them in the broad archivolts a continuous chain of
language and of life, angels and the signs of heaven and the labors of
men, each in its appointed season upon the earth; and above them another
range of glittering pinnacles, mixed with white arches edged with scarlet
flowers, a confusion of delight, among which the breasts of the Greek
horses are seen blazing in their breadth of golden strength, and the St.
Mark's lion, lifted on a blue field covered with stars, until at last, as
if in ecstasy, the crests of the arches break into a marble foam, and toss
themselves far into the blue sky in flashes and wreaths of sculptured
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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