The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
spray, as if the breakers on the Lido shore had been frost-bound before
they fell, and the sea-nymphs had inlaid them with coral and amethyst."[4]
This is San Marco as it was. Eight centuries had harmed it little; they
had but touched the building with a gentle hand and had mellowed its tints
into tender harmony; now its new masters, cruel in their kindness, have
restored the mosaics and scraped the marbles; now raw blotches and patches
of crude color glare out in violent contrast with those parts which, owing
to the intricacy of the carved work, or some other reason, it has been
found impossible to touch. To look at St. Mark's now is like listening to
some symphony by a master of harmony which is played on instruments all
out of tune.
Photographs, pictures, illustrations of all kinds, have made St. Mark's so
familiar to all the world that it is needless to attempt to give any
description of its details.
It may suffice to say that the cathedral stands on the site of a smaller
and older building, in which the relics of St. Mark, the tutelary saint of
Venice, had been already enshrined. The present structure was begun about
the year 976, and occupied very nearly a century in building. But it is
adorned with the spoils of many a classic structure: with columns and
slabs of marble and of porphyry and of serpentine, which were hewn from
quarries in Greece and Syria, in Egypt and Libya, by the hands of Roman
slaves, and decked the palaces and the baths, the temples and the theaters
of Roman cities.
The inside of St. Mark's is not less strange and impressive, but hardly so
attractive as the exterior. It is plain in outline and almost heavy in
design, a Greek cross in plan, with a vaulted dome above the center and
each arm. Much as the exterior of St. Mark's owes to marble, porphyry,
and mosaic, it would be beautiful if constructed only of grey limestone.
This could hardly be said of the interior: take away the choice stones
from columns and dado and pavement, strip away the crust of mosaic, those
richly robed figures on ground of gold, from wall and from vault (for the
whole interior is veneered with marbles or mosaics), and only a rather
dark, massive building would remain, which would seem rather lower and
rather smaller than one had been led to expect.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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