The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
A well-known writer on Egypt has truly observed that there are three
Egypts to interest the traveller. The Egypt of the Pharoahs and the Bible,
the Egypt of the Caliphates and the "Arabian Nights," and the Egypt of
European commerce and enterprise. It is to this third stage of
civilization that the fine harbor of Alexandria bears witness. Not only is
it of interest to the engineer and the man of science, but it is also of
great historic importance. It serves as a link between ancient and modern
civilization. The port is Alexander the Great's best monument--"si quæris
monumentum respice." But for this, Alexandria might now be a little
fishing port of no more importance than the little Greek fishing village,
Rhacotis, whose ruins lie buried beneath its spacious quays. It is not
inaccurate to say that the existing harbor is the joint work of Alexander
and English engineers of the present century. It was originally formed by
the construction of a vast mole (Heptastadion) joining the island of
Pharos to the mainland; and this stupendous feat of engineering, planned
and carried out by Alexander, has been supplemented by the magnificent
breakwater constructed by England in 1872, at a cost of over two and a
half millions sterling. After Marseilles, Malta, and Spezzia, it is
perhaps the finest port in the Mediterranean, both on account of its
natural advantages as a haven, and by reason of the vast engineering works
mentioned above. The western harbor (formerly called Eunostos or "good
home sailing") of which we are speaking--for the eastern, or so-called new
harbor, is choked with sand and given up to native craft--has only one
drawback in the dangerous reef at its entrance, and which should have been
blasted before the breakwater and the other engineering works were
undertaken. The passage through the bar is very intricate and difficult,
and is rarely attempted in very rough weather. The eastern harbor will be
of more interest to the artist, crowded as it is with the picturesque
native craft and dahabyehs with their immense lateen sails. The traveller,
so disgusted with the modern aspect of the city from the western harbor,
finds some consolation here, and begins to feel that he is really in the
East. Formerly this harbor was alone available for foreign ships, the
bigoted Moslems objecting to the "Frankish dogs" occupying their best
haven. This restriction has, since the time of Mehemet Ali, been removed,
greatly to the advantage of Alexandrian trade.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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