The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
Turning our survey inland, we see from the Barracca a rolling country,
whitish, dry, and uninviting, dotted with white rocks projecting above the
surface; white little villages, each with its church and walled fields;
and topping all, on the summit of a rising ground, a town over which rise
the spires of a cathedral. This is Citta Vecchia, the "old city" as it was
called when the capital was transferred to Valletta, though the people
round about still call it by the Saracenic name of "Medina," (the town),
the more modern designation of "Notabile" being due to a complimentary
remark of Alfonso the Magnanimous, King of Castile. No town in Malta is
more ancient. Here, we know from the famous oration of Cicero, that
Verres, Prætor of Sicily, established some manufactories for cotton goods,
out of which were made women's dresses of extraordinary magnificence, and
here also the same voluptuous ruler did a reprehensible amount of
plundering from temples and the "abodes of wealthy and honorable
citizens." In their time-honored capital the Grand Masters had to be
inaugurated, and in its cathedral every Bishop of Malta must still be
consecrated. But the glory of Notabile is its memories, for in all
Christendom there is no more silent city than the one towards which we
creep by means of the island railway which has of late years shortened the
eight miles between it and Valletta. Every rood, after leaving the
cave-like station hollowed out of the soft solid rock, and the tunnels
under the fortifications, seems sleepier and sleepier. Every few minutes
we halt at a white-washed shed hard by a white-washed "casal." And all the
"casals" seem duplicates of each other. The white streets of these
villages are narrow, and the people few. But the church is invariably
disproportionately large, well built, and rich in decorations, while the
shops in the little square are much poorer than people who support so fine
a church ought to patronize. There is Hamrun, with its Apostolic Institute
directed by Algerian missionaries, Misada in the valley, and Birchircara.
Casal Curmi, where the cattle market is held, is seen in the distance, and
at Lia and Balzan we are among the orange and lemon gardens for which
these villages are famous. The San Antonio Palace, with its pleasant
grounds, forms a relief to the eye. At Attard, "the village of roses," the
aqueduct which supplies Valletta with the water of Diar Handur comes in
sight, and then, at San Salvador, the train begins the steep pull which
ends at the base of the hill on which Notabile is built.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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