The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
On this slope are little terraced fields and remains of what must at one
time have been formidable fortifications. But all is crumbling now. A few
of the Valletta merchants are taking advantage of the railway by building
country houses, and some of the old Maltese nobility cling to the town
associated with their quondam glory. But its decaying mansions with their
mouldering coats of arms, palaces appropriated to prosaic purposes,
ramparts from which for ages the clash of arms has departed, and streets
silent except for the tread of the British soldiers stationed there or the
mumble of the professional beggar, tell a tale of long-departed greatness.
A statue of Juno is embedded in the gateway, and in the shed-like museum
have been collected a host of Phoenician, Roman, and other remains dug out
of the soil of the city. Maltese boys pester us to buy copper coins of the
knights which are possibly honest, and their parents produce silver ones
which are probably apocryphal.
In Notabile itself there is not, however, a great deal to look at, though
from the summit of the Sanatorium, of old the Courts of Justice (and there
are dreadful dungeons underneath it still), a glance may be obtained over
the entire island. To the prosaic eye it looks rather dry to be the "Fior
del Mondo," the flower of the world, as the patriotic Maltese terms the
land which he leaves with regret and returns to with joy. There to the
south lies Verdala Palace, and the Boschetto, a grove in much request for
picnic parties from Valletta, and beyond both, the Inquisitor's summer
palace, close to where the sea spray is seen flying against the rugged
cliffs. The Bingemma hills, thick with Phoenician tombs, are seen to the
west, and if the pedestrian cares he may visit the old rock fortress of
Kala ta Bahria, Imtarfa, where stood the temple of Proserpine, and
Imtahleb near the seashore, where in the season wild strawberries abound.
Musta, with its huge domed church, is prominent enough to the northeast,
while with a glass it is not difficult to make out Zebbar and Zeitun,
Zurrico, Paola, and other villages of the southeastern coast scattered
through a region where remains of the past are very plentiful. For here
are the ruins of the temples of Hagiar Khim and Mnaidra, rude prehistoric
monuments, and on the shore of the Marsa Scirocco (a bay into which the
hot wind of Africa blows direct), is a megalithic wall believed to be the
last of the temple of Melkarte, the Tyrian Hercules.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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