The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
At the entrance to the tunneled highway known as the Grotto di Posilipo,
which burrows through the promontory that forms the western bulwark of
Naples, and serves as a barrier to shut out the noise of that overgrown
city, is a columbarium known as Virgil's Tomb. The guide-books, with their
superior erudition, speak rather contemptuously of this historic spot as
the "so-called tomb of Virgil." Yet historical evidence seems to point to
the truth of the tradition which has assigned this spot as the place where
Virgil's ashes were once placed. A visit to this tomb is a suitable
introduction to the neighborhood of which Virgil seems to be the tutelary
genius. Along the sunny slopes of Posilipo the poet doubtless occasionally
wended his way to the villa of Lucullus, at the extreme end of the
peninsula. Leaving the gloomy grotto, the short cut to Pozzuoli, on our
right, we begin to mount the far-famed "Corniche" of Posilipo, which
skirts the cliffs of the promontory. The road at first passes the
fashionable Mergellina suburb, fringed by an almost uninterrupted series
of villa gardens. This is, perhaps, one of the most beautiful drives in
the South of Europe. Every winding discloses views which are at once the
despair and the delight of the painter. At every turn we are tempted to
stop and feast the eyes on the glorious prospect. Perhaps of all the fine
views in and around Naples, that from the Capo di Posilipo is the most
striking, and dwells longest in the memory. At one's feet lies Naples, its
whitewashed houses glittering bright in the flood of sunshine. Beyond,
across the deep blue waters of the gulf, Vesuvius, the evil genius of this
smiling country, arrests the eye, from whose summit, like a halo,
"A wreath of light blue vapor, pure and rare,
Mounts, scarcely seen against the deep blue sky;
* * * * *
... It forms, dissolving there,
The dome, as of a palace, hung on high
Over the mountains."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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