The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
Portici, Torre del Greco, and Torre del' Annunziata can hardly be
distinguished in this densely populated fringe of coast-line, which
extends from Naples to Castellamare. Sometimes at sunset we have a
magnificent effect. This sea-wall of continuous towns and villages lights
up under the dying rays of the sun like glowing charcoal. The
conflagration appears to spread to Naples, and the huge city is "lit up
like Sodom, as if fired by some superhuman agency." This atmospheric
phenomenon may remind the imaginative spectator of the dread possibilities
afforded by the proximity of the ever-threatening volcano towering _in
terrorem_ over the thickly populated plain. There is a certain weird charm
born of impending danger, which gives the whole district a pre-eminence in
the world of imagination. It has passed through its baptism of fire; and
who knows how soon "the dim things below" may be preparing a similar fate
for a city so rashly situated? These dismal reflections are, however, out
of place on the peaceful slopes of Posilipo, whose very name denotes
freedom from care.
The shores of this promontory are thickly strewed with Roman ruins, which
are seldom explored owing to their comparative inaccessibility. Most of
the remains, theaters, temples, baths, porticoes, and other buildings,
whose use or nature defies the learning of the antiquary, are thought to
be connected with the extensive villa of the notorious epicure Vedius
Polio. Traces of the fish-tanks for the eels, which Seneca tells us were
fed with the flesh of disobedient slaves, are still visible. Descending
the winding gradients of Posilipo, we get the first glimpse of the lovely
little Bay of Pozzuoli. The view is curious and striking. So deeply and
sharply indented is the coast, and so narrow and tortuous are the channels
that separate the islands Ischia, Procida, and Nisida, that it is
difficult to distinguish the mainland. We enjoy a unique panorama of land
and sea, islands, bays, straits, capes, and peninsulas all inextricably
intermingled.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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