The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
The slight annoyance caused by the great crowds is amply compensated for
by the beauties of the extraordinarily grand scenery which is to be found
within the island desecrated by memories of that "deified beast Tiberius,"
as Dickens calls him. What constitutes the chief charm of the natural
features of Capri are the sharp contrasts and the astonishing variety in
the scenery. Rugged precipices, in height exceeding the cliffs of
Tintagel, and in beauty and boldness of outline surpassing the crags of
the grandest Norwegian fiords, wall in a green and fertile garden-land
covered with orange-orchards, olive-groves, and corn-fields. Cruising
round this rock-bound and apparently inaccessible island, it seems a
natural impregnable fortress, a sea-girt Gibraltar guarding the entrance
of the gulf, girdled round with precipitous crags rising a thousand feet
sheer out of the sea, the cliff outline broken by steep ravines and rocky
headlands, with outworks of crags, reefs, and Titanic masses of tumbled
rocks.
These physical contrasts are strikingly paralleled in the history of the
island. This little speck on the earth's surface, now given up solely to
fishing, pastoral pursuits, and the exploitation of tourists, and as
little affected by public affairs as if it were in the midst of the
Mediterranean, instead of being almost within cannon-shot of the
metropolis of South Italy, has passed through many vicissitudes, conquered
in turn by Phoenicians, Greeks, and Romans; under Rome little known and
used merely as a lighthouse station for the benefit of the corn-galleys
plying from Sicily to Naples, till the old Emperor Augustus took a fancy
to it, and used it as a sanatorium for his declining years. Some years
later we find this isolated rock in the occupation of the infamous
Tiberius, as the seat of government from which he ruled the destinies of
the whole empire. Then, to run rapidly through succeeding centuries, we
find Capri, after the fall of Rome, sharing in the fortunes and
misfortunes of Naples, and losing all historic individuality till the
beginning of the present century, when the Neapolitan Gibraltar became a
political shuttlecock, tossed about in turn between Naples, England, and
France; and now it complacently accepts the destiny Nature evidently
marked out for it, and has become the sanatorium of Naples, and the Mecca
of artists and lovers of the picturesque.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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