The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
One cannot be many hours in Capri without being reminded of its tutelary
genius Tiberius. In fact as Mr. A. J. Symonds has forcibly expressed it,
"the hoof-print of illustrious crime is stamped upon the island." All the
_religio loci_, if such a phrase is permissible in connection with
Tiberius, seems centered in this unsavoury personality. We cannot get away
from him. His palaces and villas seem to occupy every prominent point in
the island. Even the treasure-trove of the antiquary bears undying witness
to his vices, and shows that Suetonius, in spite of recent attempts to
whitewash the Emperor's memory, did not trust to mere legends and fables
for his biography. Even the most ardent students of Roman history would
surely be glad to be rid of this forbidding spectre that forces itself so
persistently on their attention. To judge by the way in which the simple
Capriotes seek to perpetuate the name of their illustrious patron, one
might almost suppose that the Emperor, whose name is proverbial as a
personification of crime and vice, had gone through some process akin to
canonization.
Capri, though still famous for beautiful women, whose classic features,
statuesque forms, and graceful carriage, recall the Helens and the
Aphrodites of the Capitol and Vatican, and seem to invite transfer to the
painter's canvas, can no longer be called the "artist's paradise." The
pristine simplicity of these Grecian-featured daughters of the island,
which made them invaluable as models, is now to a great extent lost. The
march of civilization has imbued them with the commercial instinct, and
they now fully appreciate their artistic value. No casual haphazard
sketches of a picturesque group of peasant girls, pleased to be of service
to a stranger, no impromptu portraiture of a little Capriote fisher-boy,
is now possible. It has become a "sitting" for a consideration, just as if
it took place in an ordinary Paris atelier or a Rome studio. The idea that
the tourist is a gift of Providence, sent for their especial benefit, to
be looked at in the same light as are the "kindly fruits of the earth,"
recalls to our mind the quaint old Indian myth of Mondamin, the beautiful
stranger, with his garments green and yellow, from whose dead body sprang
up the small green feathers, afterwards to be known as maize. However, the
Capriotes turn their visitors to better account than that; in fact, their
eminently practical notions on the point appear to gain ground in this
once unsophisticated country, while the recognized methods of agriculture
remain almost stationary. The appearance of a visitor armed with
sketch-book or camera is now the signal for every male and female Capriote
within range to pose in forced and would-be graceful attitudes, or to
arrange themselves in unnatural conventional groups: aged crones sprout
up, as if by magic, on every doorstep; male loungers "lean airily on
posts"; while at all points of the compass bashful maidens hover around,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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