The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
We will, of course, take the famous steps, and ignore the excellently
engineered high-road that winds round the cliffs, green with arbutus and
myrtle, in serpentine gradients, looking from the heights above mere loops
of white ribbon. Anacapri is delightfully situated in a richly cultivated
table-land, at the foot of Monte Solaro. Climbing the slopes of the
mountain, we soon reach the Hermitage, where we have a fine bird's-eye
view of the island, with Anacapri spread out at our feet, and the town of
Capri clinging to the hillsides on our right. But a far grander view
rewards our final climb to the summit. We can see clearly outlined every
beautiful feature of the Bay of Naples, with its magnificent coast-line
from Misenum to Sorrento in prominent relief almost at our feet, and
raising our eyes landwards we can see the Campanian Plain till it is
merged in the purple haze of the Apennines. To the south the broad expanse
of water stretches away to the far horizon, and to the right this
incomparable prospect is bounded by that "enchanted land" where
"Sweeps the blue Salernian bay,
With its sickle of white sand."
and on a very clear day we can faintly discern a purple, jagged outline,
which shows where "Pæstum and its ruins lie."
In spite of the undeniable beauties of Capri, it seems so given up to
artists and amateur photographers that it is a relief to get away to a
district not quite so well known. We have left to the last, as a fitting
climax, the most beautiful bit of country, not only in the neighborhood of
Naples, but in the whole of South Italy. The coast-road from Castellamare
to Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi offers a delightful alternation and
combination of the softest idyllic scenery with the wildest and most
magnificent mountain and crag landscape. In fact, it is necessary to
exercise some self-restraint in language and to curb a temptation to
rhapsodize when describing this beautiful region. The drive from Naples to
Castellamare is almost one continuous suburb, and the change from this
monotonous succession of streets of commonplace houses to the beautiful
country we reach soon after leaving the volcanic district at Castellamare
is very marked. In the course of our journey we cannot help noticing the
bright yellow patches of color on the beach and the flat house-tops. This
is the wheat used for the manufacture of macaroni, of which Torre dell'
Annunziata is the great center. All along the road the houses, too, have
their loggias and balconies festooned with the strips of finished macaroni
spread out to dry. All this lights up the dismal prospect of apparently
never-ending buildings, and gives a literally local color to the district.
There is not much to delay the traveller in Castellamare, and soon after
leaving the overcrowded and rather evil-smelling town we enter upon the
beautiful coast-road to Sorrento. For the first few miles the road runs
near the shore, sometimes almost overhanging the sea. We soon get a view
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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