The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
each balancing on her head the indispensable water-jar. These vulgarizing
tendencies explain why it is that painters are now beginning to desert
Capri.
But we are forgetting the great boast of Capri, the Blue Grotto. Everyone
has heard of this famous cave, the beauties of which have been described
by Mr. A. J. Symonds in the following graphic and glowing picture in
prose: Entering the crevice-like portal, "you find yourself transported to
a world of wavering, subaqueous sheen. The grotto is domed in many
chambers; and the water is so clear that you can see the bottom, silvery,
with black-finned fishes diapered upon the blue-white sand. The flesh of a
diver in this water showed like the face of children playing at
snap-dragon; all around him the spray leaped up with living fire; and when
the oars struck the surface, it was as though a phosphorescent sea had
been smitten, and the drops ran from the blades in blue pearls." It must,
however, be remembered that these marvels can only be perfectly seen on a
clear and sunny day, and when, too, the sun is high in the sky. Given
these favorable conditions, the least impressionable must feel the magic
of the scene, and enjoy the shifting brilliancy of light and color. The
spectators seem bathed in liquid sapphire, and the sensation of being
enclosed in a gem is strange indeed. But we certainly shall not experience
any such sensation if we explore this lovely grotto in the company of the
noisy and excited tourists who daily arrive in shoals by the Naples
steamer. To appreciate its beauties the cave must be visited alone and at
leisure.
Those who complain of the village of Capri being so sadly modernized and
tourist-ridden will find at Anacapri some of that Arcadian simplicity they
are seeking, for the destroying (æsthetically speaking) fingers of
progress and civilization have hardly touched this secluded mountain
village, though scarcely an hour's walk from the "capital" of the island.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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