The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
Nor are even Oriental buildings of great architectural pretensions wanting
to this newer French city. The conquerors, in reconstructing Algiers on
the Parisian model, have at least forborne to Haussmannise in every
instance the old mosques and palaces. The principal square, a broad place
lined with palm-trees, is enlivened and made picturesque by the white
round dome and striking minarets of the Mosquée de la Pêcherie. Hard by
stands the Cathedral, a religious building of Mussulman origin, half
Christianized externally by a tower at each end, but enclosing within
doors its old Mohammedan _mimbar_ and many curious remains of quaint
Moorish decoration. The Archbishopric at its side is a Moorish palace of
severe beauty and grandeur; the museum of Græco-Roman antiques is oddly
installed in the exquisite home raised for himself by Mustapha Pasha. The
Great Mosque, in the Rue Bab-el-Oued, remains to us unspoiled as the
finest architectural monument of the early Mohammedan world. That glorious
pile was built by the very first Arab conquerors of North Africa, the
companions of the Prophet, and its exquisite horse-shoe arches of pure
white marble are unsurpassed in the Moslem world for their quaintness,
their oddity, and their originality.
The interior of this mosque is, to my mind, far more impressive than
anything to be seen even in Cairo itself, so vast it is, so imposing, so
grand, so gloomy. The entire body of the building is occupied throughout
by successive arcades, supported in long rows by plain, square pillars.
Decoration there is none; the mosque depends for effect entirely on its
architectural features and its noble proportions. But the long perspective
of these endless aisles, opening out to right and left perpetually as you
proceed, strikes the imagination of the beholder with a solemn sense of
vastness and mystery. As you pick your way, shoeless, among the loose mats
on the floor, through those empty long corridors, between those
buttress-like pillars, the soul shrinks within you, awe-struck. The very
absence of images or shrines, the simplicity and severity, gives one the
true Semitic religious thrill. No gauds or gewgaws here. You feel at once
you are in the unseen presence of the Infinite and the Incomprehensible.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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