The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
Nor are fair outlooks wanting. From many points of view on the Mustapha
Hill the prospect is among the most charming in the western Mediterranean.
Sir Lambert Playfair, indeed, the learned and genial British
Consul-General whose admirable works on Algeria have been the delight of
every tourist who visits that beautiful country, is fond of saying that
the two finest views on the Inland Sea are, first, that from the Greek
Theater at Taormina, and, second, that from his own dining-room windows on
the hill-top at El Biar. This is very strong praise, and it comes from the
author of a handbook to the Mediterranean who has seen that sea in all
aspects, from Gibralta to Syria; yet I fancy it is too high, especially
when one considers that among the excluded scenes must be put Naples,
Sorrento, Amalfi, Palermo, and the long stretch of Venice as seen from the
Lido. I would myself even rank the outlook on Monaco from the slopes of
Cap Martin, and the glorious panorama of Nice and the Maritime Alps from
the Lighthouse Hill at Antibes, above any picture to be seen from the
northern spurs of the Sahel. Let us be just to Piræus before we are
generous to El Biar. But all this is, after all, a mere matter of taste,
and no lover of the picturesque would at any rate deny that the Bay of
Algiers, as viewed from the Mustapha Hill, ranks deservedly high among the
most beautiful sights of the Mediterranean. And when the sunset lights up
in rosy tints the white mole and the marble town, the resulting scene is
sometimes one of almost fairy-like splendor.
Indeed, the country round Mustapha is a district of singular charm and
manifold beauty. The walks and drives are delicious. Great masses of pale
white clematis hang in sheets from the trees, cactus and aloe run riot
among the glens, sweet scents of oleander float around the deep ravines,
delicious perfumes of violets are wafted on every breeze from unseen and
unsuspected gardens. Nowhere do I know a landscape so dotted with houses,
and nowhere are the houses themselves so individually interesting. The
outlook over the bay, the green dells of the foreground, the town on its
steep acclivity, the points and headlands, and away above all, in the
opposite direction, the snow-clad peaks of the Djurjura, make up a picture
that, after all, has few equals or superiors on our latter-day planet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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