The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
Malaga has been very differently described and appreciated. The Arab
chroniclers who knew it in the palmy days of the Moorish domination
considered it "a most beautiful city, densely peopled, large and most
excellent." Some rose to poetical rhapsody in describing it; they praised
it as "the central jewel of a necklace, a land of paradise, the pole star,
the diadem of the moon, the forehead of a bewitching beauty unveiled." A
Spanish poet was not less eloquent, and sang of Malaga as "the
enchantress, the home of eternal spring, bathed by the soft sea, nestling
amidst flowers." Ford, on the other hand, that prince of guide-book
makers, who knew the Spain of his day intimately from end to end, rather
despised Malaga. He thought it a fine but purely commercial city, having
"few attractions beyond climate, almonds and raisins, and sweet wine."
Malaga has made great strides nevertheless in the fifty-odd years since
Ford so wrote of it. While preserving many of the charming characteristics
which evoked such high-flown encomiums in the past, it has developed
considerably in trade, population, and importance. It grows daily;
building is constantly in progress, new streets are added year after year
to the town. Its commerce flourishes; its port is filled with shipping
which carry off its many manufactures: chocolate, liquorice, porous jars,
and clay figures, the iron ores that are smelted on the spot; the
multifarious products of its fertile soil, which grows in rich profusion
the choicest fruits of the earth: grapes, melons, plantains, guava,
quince, Japanese medlars, oranges, lemons, and prickly pears. All the
appliances and luxurious aids to comfort known to our latter-day
civilization are to be found in Malaga: several theaters, one of them an
opera house, clubs, grand hotels, bankers, English doctors, cabs. It
rejoices too in an indefeasible and priceless gift, a nearly perfect
climate, the driest and balmiest in Southern Europe. Rain falls in Malaga
but half a dozen days in the year, and its winter sun would shame that of
an English summer. It has a southern aspect, and is sheltered from the
north by an imposing range of mountains; its only trouble is the _terral_
or north-west wind, the same disagreeable visitor as that known on the
Italian Riviera as the Tramontana, and in the south of France as the
Mistral. These climatic advantages have long recommended Malaga as a
winter health resort for delicate and consumptive invalids, and an
increasingly successful rival to Madeira, Malta, and Algiers. The general
view of this city of sunshine, looking westward, to which point it lies
open, is pleasing and varied; luxuriant southern vegetation, aloes,
palmetto, and palms, fill up the foreground; in the middle distance are
the dazzling white façades and towers of the town, the great amphitheater
of the bull ring, the tall spire of the Cathedral a very conspicuous
object, the whole set off by the dark blue Mediterranean, and the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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