The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
What a picture it offers, too, of human life, that noisy Cannebière! By
day or by night it is equally attractive. On it centers all that is alive
in Marseilles--big hotels, glittering cafés, luxurious shops, scurrying
drays, high-stepping carriage-horses, and fashionably-dressed humanity; an
endless crowd, many of them hatless and bonnetless in true southern
fashion, parade without ceasing its ringing pavements. At the end of all,
the Old Port closes the view with its serried masts, and tells you the
wherefore of this mixed society. The Cannebière, in short, is the Rue de
Rivoli of the Mediterranean, the main thoroughfare of all those teeming
shores of oil and wine, where culture still lingers by its ancient cradle.
Close to the Quai, and at the entrance of the Cannebière, stands the
central point of business in new Marseilles, the Bourse, where the filial
piety of the modern Phocæans has done ample homage to the sacred memory of
their ancient Hellenic ancestors. For in the place of honor on the façade
of that great palace of commerce the chief post has been given, as was
due, to the statues of the old Massaliote admirals, Pytheas and
Euthymenes. It is this constant consciousness of historical continuity
that adds so much interest to Mediterranean towns. One feels as one stands
before those two stone figures in the crowded Cannebière, that after all
humanity is one, and that the Phocæans themselves are still, in the
persons of their sons, among us.
The Cannebière runs nearly east and west, and is of no great length, under
its own name at least; but under the transparent alias of the Rue de
Noailles it continues on in a straight line till it widens out at last
into the Allées de Meilhan, the favorite haunt of all the gossips and
quidnuncs of Marseilles. The Allées de Meilhan, indeed, form the _beau
idéal_ of the formal and fashionable French promenade. Broad avenues of
plane trees cast a mellow shade over its well-kept walks, and the neatest
of nurses in marvelous caps and long silk streamers dandle the laciest and
fluffiest of babies, in exquisite costumes, with ostentatious care, upon
their bountiful laps. The stone seats on either side buzz with the latest
news of the town; the Zouave flirts serenely with the bonnetless
shop-girls; the sergeant-de-ville stalks proudly down the midst, and
barely deigns to notice such human weaknesses. These Allées are the
favorite haunt of all idle Marseilles, below the rank of "carriage
company," and it is probable that Satan finds as much mischief still for
its hands to do here as in any other part of that easy-going city.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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