The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
At right angles to the main central artery thus constituted by the
Cannebière, the Rue de Noailles, and the Allées de Meilhan runs the second
chief stream of Marseillais life, down a channel which begins as the Rue
d'Aix and the Cours Belzunce, and ends, after various intermediate
disguises, as the Rue de Rome and the Prado. Just where it crosses the
current of the Cannebière, this polyonymous street rejoices in the title
of the Cours St. Louis. Close by is the place where the flower-women sit
perched up quaintly in their funny little pulpits, whence they hand down
great bunches of fresh dewy violets or pinky-white rosebuds, with
persuasive eloquence to the obdurate passer-by. This flower-market is one
of the sights of Marseilles, and I know no other anywhere--not even at
Nice--so picturesque or so old-world. It keeps up something of the true
Provençal flavor, and reminds one that here, in this Greek colony, we are
still in the midst of the land of roses and of Good King René, the land of
troubadours, and gold and flowers, and that it is the land of sun and
summer sunshine.
As the Rue de Rome emerges from the town and gains the suburb, it clothes
itself in overhanging shade of plane-trees, and becomes known forthwith as
the Prado--that famous Prado, more sacred to the loves and joys of the
Marseillais than the Champs Elysées are to the born Parisian. For the
Prado is the afternoon-drive of Marseilles, the Rotten Row of local
equestrianism, the rallying-place and lounge of all that is fashionable in
the Phocæan city as the Allées de Meilhan are of all that is bourgeois or
frankly popular. Of course the Prado does not differ much from all other
promenades of its sort in France: the upper-crust of the world has grown
painfully tame and monotonous everywhere within the last twenty-five
years: all flavor and savor of national costume or national manners has
died out of it in the lump, and left us only in provincial centers the
insipid graces of London and Paris, badly imitated. Still, the Prado is
undoubtedly lively; a broad avenue bordered with magnificent villas of the
meretricious Haussmannesque order of architecture; and it possesses a
certain great advantage over every other similar promenade I know of in
the world--it ends at last in one of the most beautiful and picturesque
sea-drives in all Europe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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