"Like the other passengers, we too had our supply of provisions and our cooking utensils, which I had bought in Constantinople. I had, besides, a further and fairly complete supply which M. l'Ambassadeur had given us, consisting of very fine biscuits, hams, sausages, saveloys, different sorts of wine, rum, sugar, lemons, and even quinine-wine against the fever. I was therefore furnished with a very plentiful provision, which I husbanded and only consumed with great economy, knowing that we had more than this one crossing to make: everything was locked up where the passengers were not allowed to go. "Our crossing, which lasted only thirteen days, seemed very long to me through all sorts of unpleasantness and uncleanliness on board. During several days of bad weather which we encountered, the women and children were sick, throwing up everywhere, so much so that we were obliged to leave our cabin and sleep on deck. There we took our meals much more comfortably than elsewhere, as we decided to wait until all our Greeks had finished their littering." [Sidenote: Mount Carmel.] I passed through the Dardanelles, touched at Rhodes, and took a pilot for the Syrian coast. We were stopped by a calm below the Asiatic continent, almost opposite the old Cape Chelidonia. We remained two days at sea without knowing where we were. MY ITINERARY. "The weather was so fine and the air so mild that all the passengers spent the night on deck. I had contended for a place on the quarter-deck with two fat caloyers, who yielded it to me only after much grumbling. I was lying asleep there at six o'clock in the morning on the 30th of September, when I was aroused by a confused noise of voices: I opened my eyes, and saw the pilgrims looking towards the prow of the vessel. I asked what it was; they shouted '_Signor, il Carmelo!_' Mount Carmel! The wind had risen at eight o'clock the previous evening, and we had arrived in sight of the Syrian coast during the night. As I was sleeping fully dressed, I was soon on my feet, asking the whereabouts of the sacred mountain. Everyone was eager to point it out to me; but I perceived nothing, owing to the sun which was beginning to rise opposite to us. That moment had about it something religious and august: all the pilgrims, their beads in their hands, had remained silently in the same attitude, awaiting the apparition of the Holy Land; the chief of the popes prayed aloud: one heard only that prayer and the sound of the running of the vessel, which the most favourable wind was impelling across a dazzling sea. From time to time a shout rose from the prow, when one caught sight of Mount Carmel again. At last I myself perceived the mountain, like a round patch beneath the rays of the sun. I then went on my knees in the manner of the Latins.