The Memoirs of François René Vicomte de Chateaubriand sometime Ambassador to England, Volume 2 (of 6): Mémoires d'outre-tombe, volume 2Chateaubriand, François-René, vicomte de
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The Memoirs of François René Vicomte de Chateaubriand sometime Ambassador to England, Volume 2 (of 6): Mémoires d'outre-tombe, volume 2
Chateaubriand, François-René, vicomte de
Chateaubriand, François-René, vicomte de, 1768-1848
I did not feel the peculiar trouble
which I experienced on discovering the coast of Greece: but
the sight of the cradle of the Israelites and the native land
of the Christians filled me with joy and respect. I was about
to step upon the land of prodigies, near the sources of the
most astounding poetry, in the region where, even humanly
speaking, the greatest event took place that ever changed the
face of the world. . . . . . . . . . .
"The wind dropped at noon; it rose again at four o'clock; but
through the ignorance of the pilot we went beyond our aim....
At two o'clock in the afternoon we saw Jaffa again.
"A boat left the shore with three monks. I stepped into the
launch with them; we entered the harbour through an opening
effected between the rocks, and dangerous even for a ship's
boat.
"The Arabs on the beach came out into the water to their
waists, in order to take us on their shoulders. Then there
followed a rather laughable scene: my servant was dressed in
a whitish frock-coat; white being the colour of distinction
among the Arabs, they deemed that Julien was the sheik. They
caught hold of him and carried him off in triumph, despite
his protests, while, thanks to my blue coat, I made my escape
humbly on the back of a ragged beggar."
Now let us hear Julien, the principal actor in the scene:
JULIEN'S ITINERARY.
"What surprised me greatly was to see six Arabs come to carry
me on land, while there were only two for Monsieur, which
amused him much, to see me carried like a reliquary. I do not
know whether my apparel seemed to them more brilliant than
Monsieur's: he wore a brown frock-coat and buttons of the
same; mine was whitish, with buttons of white metal which
gave off a certain gleam in the bright sunshine: this may, no
doubt, have caused the mistake.
"We went, on Wednesday the 1st of October, to the monks of
Jaffa, who belong to the Order of Cordeliers, speaking Latin
and Italian, but very little French. They received us very
well, and did all that in them lay to procure for us all we
needed."
I arrived in Jerusalem. On the advice of the Fathers of the convent,
I passed quickly through the Holy City to go to the Jordan. After
stopping at the monastery at Bethlehem, I set out with an Arab escort;
I stopped at St. Sabas. At midnight, I found myself on the shore of the
Dead Sea.
MY ITINERARY.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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