The Memoirs of François René Vicomte de Chateaubriand sometime Ambassador to England. Volume 6 (of 6): Mémoires d'outre-tombe volume 6Chateaubriand, François-René, vicomte de
General
The Memoirs of François René Vicomte de Chateaubriand sometime Ambassador to England. Volume 6 (of 6): Mémoires d'outre-tombe volume 6
Chateaubriand, François-René, vicomte de
Chateaubriand, François-René, vicomte de, 1768-1848
Journal from Carlsbad to
Paris--Cynthia--Eger--Wallenstein--Weisaenstadt--Berneck--Memories
--Bayreuth--Voltaire--Hollfeld--The church--The little girl with
the basket--The inn-keeper and his maid-servant--Bamberg--The
female hunchback--Würzburg: its canons--A drunkard--The
swallow--The inn at Wiesenbach--A German and his wife--My age and
appearance--Heidelberg--Pilgrims--Ruins--Mannheim--The Rhine--The
Palatinate--Aristocratic and plebeian armies--Convent and castle--A
lonely inn--Kaiserslautern--Saarbrück--Metz--Charles X.'s Council in
France--Ideas on Henry V.--My letter to Madame la Dauphine--Letters
from Madame la Duchesse de Berry.
1 _June_ 1833, _evening._
The journey from Carlsbad to Elbogen, along the Eger, is pleasant. The
castle of this little town is of the twelfth century and keeps sentry
on a rock, at the entrance to the gorge of a valley. The foot of the
rock, covered with trees, is contained within a bend of the Eger: hence
the name of the town and the castle, Elbogen, the Elbow.
The donjon was red with the last rays of the sun when I saw it from the
high-road. Above the mountains and woods hung the twisted column of
smoke of a foundry.
I started at half-past nine from the Zwoda stage. I followed the road
along which Vauvenargues passed in the retreat from Prague, the young
man to whom Voltaire, in the _Éloge funèbre des officiers morts en
1741_, addresses these words:
"Thou art no more, O sweet hope of my remaining days;
I have always beheld in thee the most unfortunate of men
and the most tranquil."
From inside my calash, I watched the stars rise.
Be not afraid, Cynthia,[2] it is but the whispering of the reeds bent
by our passage through their mobile forest. I have a dagger for jealous
men and blood for thee. Let not this tomb cause thee any alarm; it is
that of a woman once loved like thyself: Cecilia Metella lay here.
How wonderful is this night in the Roman Campagna! The moon rises
behind the Sabine Hill to contemplate the sea; she causes to stand
forth from the diaphanous darkness the ashen-blue summits of Albano,
the more distant, less deeply-graven lines of Soracte. The long canal
of the old aqueducts lets fall a few globules of its waters through the
mosses, columbines, gilliflowers, and joins the mountains to the city
walls. Planted one above the other, the aerial porticoes, cutting into
the sky, turn in mid-air the torrent of the ages and the course of the
brooks. The legislatrix of the world, Rome, seated on the stone of her
sepulchre, with her robe of centuries, projects the irregular outline
of her tall figure into the milky solitude.
Let us sit down: this pine-tree, like the goat-herd of the Abruzzi,
unfolds its parasol among ruins. The moon showers her snowy light upon
the Gothic crown of the tower of Metella's tomb and on the festoons of
marble that link the horns of the bucrania: a graceful pomp inviting us
to enjoy life, which speeds so soon.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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