The Memoirs of François René Vicomte de Chateaubriand sometime Ambassador to England. Volume 6 (of 6): Mémoires d'outre-tombe volume 6Chateaubriand, François-René, vicomte de
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The Memoirs of François René Vicomte de Chateaubriand sometime Ambassador to England. Volume 6 (of 6): Mémoires d'outre-tombe volume 6
Chateaubriand, François-René, vicomte de
Chateaubriand, François-René, vicomte de, 1768-1848
Venice never knew idolatry: she grew up Christian in the island where
she was reared, far from the brutality of Attila. The women descended
from the Scipios, the Pauli and the Eustochie escaped from Alaric's
violence in the Grotto of Bethlehem. Standing apart from all other
cities, the eldest daughter of ancient civilization without ever
having been dishonoured by conquest, Venice contains neither Roman
remains nor monuments of the Barbarians. Nor does one see there what
one sees in the north and west of Europe, in the midst of industrial
progress: I refer to those new structures, those whole streets built
in a hurry, in which the houses remain either unfinished or empty.
What could one build here? Wretched dens which would show the poverty
of conception of the sons after the magnificence of the genius of the
fathers; white-washed hovels which would not reach to the first storey
of the gigantic residences of the Foscaris and the Pesaros. When one
sees the trowel of mortar and the handful of plaster that have had
to be applied, for an urgent repair, against a marble capital, one
is shocked. Better the rotten planks boarding up Grecian or Moorish
windows, the rags hung out to dry on graceful balconies, than the
imprint of the mean hand of our century.
[Sidenote: The view from my windows.]
Why cannot I lock myself up in this town which harmonizes so well with
my destiny, in this city of poets, where Dante, Petrarch, Byron passed!
Why cannot I finish writing my Memoirs by the light of the sun that
falls upon these pages! At this moment the luminary is still burning my
Floridan savannahs and is setting here at the end of the Grand Canal.
I can no longer see it; but, through an opening in this wilderness
of palaces, its rays strike the ball of the Dogana, the lateen-sails
of the boats, the yards of the ships and the porch of the convent of
San Giorgio Maggiore. The tower of the monastery, changed into a rosy
column, is reflected in the waves; the white front of the church is
so brightly lighted that I can pick out the smallest details of the
chisel. The outlines of the shops of the Giudecca are painted with a
Titian light; the gondolas on the canal and the harbour are swimming in
the same light. Venice is there, seated on the shore, like a beautiful
woman about to die away with the day-light: the evening breeze lifts
up her balmy tresses; she dies saluted by all the graces and all the
smiles of nature.
VENICE, _September_ 1833.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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