[Illustration: THE COLLEONI STATUE UNDER PROTECTIVE COVERING] [Illustration: THE FAMOUS EQUESTRIAN STATUE OF BARTOLOMMEO COLLEONI, BY VERROCHIO--VENICE] The Doges' (Ducal) Palace was supported by columns of bricks; everywhere evidence could be seen of the attempt of the Italians to save the most remarkable city in the world. Inside the sumptuous Cathedral of St. Mark's, the effect was startling--all the works of art gone, the altar covered beyond recognition, mounds upon mounds of sand-bags heaped around the columns. It was more like a cave than the interior of one of the most beautiful of churches. Along the Grand Canal the large hotels have been converted into hospitals. Vast palaces have been closed and deserted. Life on the Canal is so quiet that it is almost painful. It is not the same Venice so many travelers recall. Only one good-class hotel is open. There are a few boarding-houses, but all the magnificent hotels are either closed or filled with wounded men. It was difficult in war times to get into Venice, and more difficult to get out. Everyone was looked upon as a spy until he proved that he was not. Officials inquired into your life history, traced your every movement, watched every step you took, and if finally you passed muster and got away without a long delay, you knew that there was not a suspicion of your ever having even dreamed of being a spy. [Illustration: THE MADONNA AND TWO SAINTS BY PERUGINO-CREMONA At the right, the painting covered with timber and sand-bags] It was, of course, more difficult in the war zone. Once inside the restricted area one became a suspect, and it sometimes took weeks to obtain police and military permission to leave Italy. The Italians were in earnest, they had had a severe lesson, and they did not intend to be caught napping. An Allied victory was the one object, and Italy was ready to pay her share of the price. No braver men ever faced an enemy than the Arditi, and no enemy army ever forgot an encounter with these "shock troops" of the Italian army. These men were born and brought up in an atmosphere that has taught them how to fight. They are as hard as nails, as fearless as lions--the pick of Italy's best troops. [Illustration: MARKET WOMEN OF ITALY Photograph by E. M. Newman] Italy, though needing food, is not starving, nor is she depressed. She has recovered from the shock of 1917, and there is no disaffection among her people. All are united. Socialists cannot overturn the conditions of the nation. As for their military stamina--Austrians can testify to the fact that the Italian army is a foe worthy to engage itself at any time, against any hostile power. [Illustration: LACE MAKERS HOLD TO THEIR TRADE Island of Burrano, Venice Photograph by E. M. Newman] _The Spirit of Italy_ We cannot close more fittingly than by quoting Mr. Sidney Low's highly informing comments on the spirit of Italy:[2]