And the _monde_; who goes there? It is not too _chic_, this _monde_,
and yet it is surely not _bourgeois_; if one does not recognize M.
Rodin or M. Georges Feydeau, yet there are compensations.... The girls
who come attended by bearded companions, are unusually pretty; one
sees them afterwards at the bars and _bals_ if one does not go to the
Abbaye or Pages.... It makes a very pleasant picture, the Place du
Calvaire towards nine o'clock on a summer night when tiny lights with
pink globes are placed on the tables. The little square twinkles with
them and the couples at the tables become very gay, and sometimes
sentimental. And when the pink lights appear a small boy in blue
trousers comes along to light the street lamp. Then the urchins gather
on the wall which hedges in the garden on the fourth side of the
square and chatter, chatter, chatter, about all the things that French
boys chatter about. Naturally they have a good deal to say about the
people who are eating.
I have described the Cou-Cou as it was this night and as it has been
all the nights during the past eight summers that I have been there.
The dinner too is always the same. It is served _a la carte_, but one
is not given much choice. There is always a _potage_, always
_spaghetti_, always chicken and a salad, always a lobster, and
_zabaglione_ if one wants it. The wine--it is called _chianti_--is
tolerable. And the _addition_ is made upon a slate with a piece of
white chalk. "_Qu'est-ce que monsieur a mange?_" Sometimes it is very
difficult to remember, but it is necessary. Such honesty compels an
exertion. It is all added up and for the two of us on this evening, or
any other evening, it may come to nine _francs_, which is not much to
pay for a good dinner.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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