The mighty deep : $b and what we know of itGiberne, Agnes
Science
The mighty deep : $b and what we know of it
Giberne, Agnes
Marine biology; Nature study
By means of weight, the sun, the moon, the planets, yes, and even the
countless multitudes of stars, are kept in their paths; in each case
the inward pulling being counterbalanced by the impetus and outward
pulling of a rapid rush. By means of weight, houses, rocks, stones rest
firmly on the earth; by means of weight, the atmosphere is bound to
the earth, the Ocean to its bed. Had sea-water no weight it might be
scattered as fine water-dust through Space.
A larger and heavier Earth would bind down the ocean yet more strongly,
while a smaller and lighter Earth would have a weaker grip. Easily
as the sea is now stirred by every passing breeze, an ocean such as
ours on a little world like the Moon or Mercury would be more rapidly
agitated. The waves would leap higher with less cause.
So the Ocean, like the Land, is subject to law, knowing neither repose
nor action except in obedience to Nature’s forces.
When ocean-waters lie still as a mill-pond, they do so through an
exact _poise_ of contending powers. When waves rush high and currents
pour strongly, each movement is still in strict obedience to governing
forces, which are themselves governed by law. Each movement is due to
a long series of past movements; and each in turn helps to bring about
a long series of future movements. There are no breaks in the chain.
Every effect is also a cause.
Currents here and drifts there; breezes here and hurricanes there; all
these disturb the calm of the sea. Only for a brief spell, in one part
or another, is the pull of opposing forces so far balanced that the
water can lie still. And at most the stillness is comparative. Even
in a so-called “dead calm” gentle heavings to and fro will be found.
Absolute placidity in the ocean is a thing unknown.
Even when the waters are at their stillest they are always being drawn
steadily towards Earth’s centre. A perfectly level ocean would mean
each portion of its surface being equally distant from that centre.
The ocean ever strives after this ideal, but never attains to it; yet,
century after century that aim is pursued, with a perseverance which
might afford a lesson to ourselves.
Despite all this change and restlessness, we talk of the ocean having a
“level” surface. We picture it to our minds as being in outer shape the
same as that of the Earth--a sphere. But this is not strictly true to
fact.
If we could look upon the Earth, with large far-seeing eyes, from a
few thousands of miles off, we should find curious irregularities in
the watery outline. Instead of showing all round a smooth surface, the
ocean would be found to rise here and sink there, to be in one part
higher, in another part lower. A man roving over the ocean, all about
the Earth, would have in places to ascend undulations like hills,
almost high enough sometimes to be called mountains, in other parts to
descend declivities.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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