The mighty deep : $b and what we know of itGiberne, Agnes
Science
The mighty deep : $b and what we know of it
Giberne, Agnes
Marine biology; Nature study
Were the whole Earth covered by one continuous sheet of water, these
tidal waves would travel round and round the globe, in a fashion
easy and pleasant for students of the subject. Unfortunately for the
said students, their motions are very complicated. In the northern
hemisphere, where land is abundant, the tidal waves are greatly
interfered with by continents and islands. Often the most that each can
do, as it sweeps along, is to send side-waves and currents journeying
northward into channels and bays, estuaries and lesser seas.
Through the open ocean the tidal wave has no great height. Probably in
central regions of the Pacific it rises only some three or four feet
above the usual sea-level. But when the flow enters narrowing bays and
channels, a very different result is seen; and the waters are often
piled up in a wonderful manner,--as in the Bristol Channel, where the
level at high tide is sometimes nearly forty feet above that at low
tide.
A marked contrast to this is seen in the Mediterranean. There, as
already said, practically no tides exist. The rise and fall amount at
most to only a few inches. Instead of a wide entrance and a narrowing
estuary, we have just the opposite--a narrow entrance and a widening
sea beyond. Connection with the outside ocean is too restricted to
admit of any full flow of the tidal wave.
Solar tides, or tides brought about by the sun’s attraction, are much
the same in cause and effect as lunar tides, only far smaller in
degree. When Sun and Moon happen to be on the same side of the Earth,
or on different sides but in the same line, so that their combined pull
is exerted in one direction, we have Spring Tides. These are always at
the time of New Moon and Full Moon. Sun and Moon then work together,
each helping the other in a common aim; and the ocean-waters rise
higher and sink lower than at other times.
When Sun and Moon are so placed with regard to the Earth, that they
exercise their pull in a cross direction, Neap Tides result,--that
is tides which have small ebb and flow. In this case the sun hinders
instead of helping the moon, and the moon does the same for the sun,
each tending to counteract the work of the other.
Connected with and partly caused by the rise of the tide is the curious
phenomenon known as a “Bore”--a single high wave, moving onward like a
wall of water, with great rapidity and a roaring noise. More usually
this belongs to a river, and thus it has not much connection with
the subject of the ocean; but it is also sometimes seen in sharply
narrowing estuaries or ocean inlets.
[Illustration: BORE OF THE TSIEN TANG KIANG
_Face page 34_
]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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